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August 13, 2021 | CLIMBING

THE BEST CLIMBER IN THE WORLD

What are the names of the best climbers in the world? Alex Lowe, considered one of the greatest mountaineers in history, who tragically died in September 1999 due to an avalanche on Shisha Pangma (8,027 meters), said: "The best climber in the world is the one who has the most fun."

"The Tokyo Olympics have brought climbing to a level of exposure and visibility never seen before".

Hundreds of thousands of people have now discovered a sport that left the underground scene years ago through their televisions and other mobile devices. Suddenly, almost everyone has heard of Alberto Ginés and Janja Garnbret, the two reigning Olympic champions. Are Alberto and Janja the two best climbers in the world for winning gold at the Olympics?

Climbing is a sport with multiple faces and disciplines. There are no written rules, except in competition climbing. Boulder, sport climbing, artificial climbing, big wall, ice climbing, dry tooling, and even speed climbing – it's all climbing, although each discipline is practiced very differently and the equipment used varies from one discipline to another.

What are the names of the best climbers in the world? Alex Lowe, considered one of the greatest mountaineers in history, who tragically died in September 1999 due to an avalanche on Shisha Pangma (8,027 meters), said:

"The best climber in the world is the one who has the most fun."

Everything is subjective, and categorizing is not advisable, so let's ask ourselves the same question again... Who is the best climber in the world? What is their name?

Alex Honnold, ropeless on El Capitan

Before climbing entered the Olympic program, two films also contributed to raising its popularity and reaching the mainstream: "Free Solo" (2018), starring Alex Honnold and winner of the Academy Award for Best Documentary in 2019, and "The Dawn Wall" (2017), featuring Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson as protagonists.

"Free Solo" tells the story of Alex Honnold's free solo ascent of El Capitan via the Freerider route, rated 5.12d (7c+). This climb brought Honnold worldwide recognition and fame. Currently, Alex has 2.2 million followers on Instagram. He is the most followed climber on this social media platform, alongside Jimmy Chin (2.8 million), the director of "Free Solo" together with Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi. He surpasses climbers like Tommy Caldwell (824,000), Adam Ondra (744,000), Chris Sharma (580,000), Janja Garnbret (355,000), Emily Harrington (310,000), Daniel Woods (218,000), Margo Hayes (204,000), or Alberto Ginés, who has gained over 100,000 followers since winning the gold medal and now has 185,000 followers. So, is Alex Honnold the best climber in the world for having climbed El Capitan without a rope?

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson, the world's longest and toughest big wall climb

The entire world followed the progression of Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson on The Dawn Wall, on El Capitan. In the United States, their ascent became almost a matter of national importance. On January 14, 2015, they reached the final pitch of The Dawn Wall (900m 5.14d), having climbed all 32 pitches free, after spending 19 days on the wall. For Caldwell, this ascent was the culmination of an intense phase of his life.

The Dawn Wall is considered one of the hardest big wall climbs in the world, with difficulties up to 5.14d (9a), and Tommy began shaping the project in 2007. No one has more free climbs on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley than him. Prior to freeing The Dawn Wall, he had already climbed other routes in the same style, such as Lurking Fear, Dihedral Wall, West Buttress, and Magic Mushroom. The American climber also has first ascents of classic sport routes in the United States, such as Kryptonite 5.14d (9a) and Flex Luthor 5.15a/b (9a+/b), both located in The Fortress of Solitude (Colorado, USA). As of today, Flex Luthor still has no repetitions, despite being attempted by some of the fittest climbers in the United States. Is Tommy Caldwell the best climber in the world?

Adam Ondra, the undisputed king of the ninth grade

Adam Ondra is considered by many to be the best climber in the world today. His long list of difficult climbs speaks for itself. It's hard to mention all of the remarkable ascents by the prodigious Czech climber, but we'll focus on those that have made a significant impact in the history of sport climbing: Supercrackinette 9a+, the world's first 9a+ flash ascent in Saint Léger (France); Change 9b+, the world's first proposed 9b+ grade climb in Flatanger (Norway); and Silence 9c, the world's first proposed 9c grade climb, also in Flatanger.

Ondra holds the record for the most climbs between 9a and 9c, and in bouldering, he has completed problems up to 8C+, such as Terranova and Brutal Rider, both located in Moravský kras (Czech Republic). In November 2016, Adam achieved another significant milestone in his career by repeating The Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley (California, USA) in just eight days.

The Czech climber primarily focuses on sport climbing and also has a competitive side. He has three World Champion titles in lead climbing and one in bouldering. In addition to Ondra, we cannot overlook climbers like Stefano Ghisolfi, Jakob Schubert, and Alex Megos. All three have completed 9b+ grade climbs, and Megos recently made the second proposed 9c grade climb with Bibliographie in Céüse (France). Megos also made history by becoming the first climber to onsight a 9a grade climb, which happened in March 2013 in Siurana. The route was Estado Crítico.

Chris Sharma, a legacy of king lines. The king of kings.

Many climbers would be satisfied in their entire lives with completing just one of Chris Sharma's king lines. During his youth, he balanced bouldering with sport climbing, later fully dedicating himself to the latter. Currently, he combines sport climbing with psicobloc (deep water soloing) and has not abandoned bouldering either.

Chris Sharma left his mark in an era that is perhaps the most significant for the development of global sport climbing. In July 2001, he completed Biographie in Céüse, a route that opened the door to 9a+, a grade that seemed unreachable at the time. The world's first 9b also came from Chris's hands. After more than 100 attempts spread over several years, he completed Jumbo Love 9b in Clark Mountain (Nevada) in September 2008. Five years later, in March 2013, he achieved his first 9b+ with La Dura Dura in Oliana. A month earlier, Adam Ondra had made the first ascent. In the same wall as La Dura Dura, on the Contrafort de Rumbau, lies Le Blond, a possible 9c that Sharma sporadically attempts. It remains an open project, just like Perfecto Mundo 9b+ was in Racó de la Finestra, Margalef, where Chris obsessively tried the route for a long time. However, it was Alex Megos who ultimately made the first ascent in May 2018, followed by Stefano Ghisolfi and Jakob Schubert.

One cannot forget Chris Sharma's expertise in psicobloc (deep water soloing) either. In fact, he popularized this discipline internationally and put the island of Mallorca on the map as the mecca of deep water soloing. Who can forget his dynamic and constant falls into the Mediterranean while attempting Es Pontàs? The story is captured in the classic film King Lines (2008), which coined the term for great routes with Chris Sharma's signature.

Emily Harrington, Barbara Zangerl, and Margo Hayes, at the forefront.

In the women's category, we could dedicate entire articles to legendary climbers like Lynn Hill, Catherine Destivelle, or Steph Davis. All of them have achieved groundbreaking activities, transcending gender. Perhaps the most notable achievement was Lynn Hill's first free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in September 1993. The legacy of these influential climbers has been followed by younger athletes such as Angy Eiter, Laura Rogora, and Julia Chanourdie. These three women have successfully completed routes graded 9b.

Eiter made her mark with La Planta de Shiva in Villanueva del Rosario (Málaga) in October 2017. Are they better climbers than Hill, Destivelle, or Davis for having completed higher grades? Are they the best climbers in the world?

While Emily Harrington, Barbara Zangerl, and Margo Hayes haven't reached the 9b grade, all three have earned a place in the climbing hall of fame. Climbing abilities cannot be solely determined by the grades achieved, as climbing encompasses a wide range of disciplines and styles. Each climber brings unique strengths and accomplishments to the sport, contributing to its rich history and pushing its boundaries in their own way. The title of "best climber in the world" is subjective and can vary depending on personal opinions and criteria.

Some data about the best climbers in the world:

Alex Honnold

Date of birth: August 17, 1985.

Place of birth: Sacramento, California, USA.

Specialty: Free solo and big wall climbing.

Notable ascents: Freerider 5.12d (7c+) in free solo, El Capitan (California). Speed record on The Nose with Tommy Caldwell in 1 hour 58 minutes 07 seconds, El Capitan (California, USA).

Tommy Caldwell

Date of birth: August 11, 1978.

Place of birth: Estes Park, Colorado, USA.

Specialty: Big wall and sport climbing.

Notable ascents: Kryptonite 5.14d (9a), The Fortress of Solitude (Colorado, USA). Flex Luthor 5.15a/b (9a+/b), The Fortress of Solitude (Colorado, USA). Free ascent of The Nose in under 12 hours. Other free ascents on El Capitan: Lurking Fear, Muir Wall, West Buttress, Salathé, Zodiac, or Magic Mushroom. First ascent of The Dawn Wall (900m 5.14d), El Capitan (California, USA).

Adam Ondra

Date of birth: February 5, 1993.

Place of birth: Brno, Czech Republic.

Specialty: Sport climbing. Notable ascents: Change 9b+, Flatanger (Norway). La Dura Dura 9b+, Oliana (Catalonia). Silence 9c, Flatanger (Norway). The Dawn Wall (900m 5.14d), El Capitan (California, USA).

Chris Sharma

Date of birth: April 23, 1981.

Place of birth: Santa Cruz, California, USA.

Specialty: Sport climbing and deep-water soloing.

Notable ascents: First Round First Minute 9b, Margalef (Catalonia). La Dura Dura 9b+, Oliana (Catalonia). Es Pontàs 9b, Mallorca (Balearic Islands). Alasha, Mallorca (Balearic Islands).

Emily Harrington

Date of birth: August 17, 1986.

Place of birth: Boulder, Colorado, USA. Specialty: Big wall and sport climbing.

Notable ascents: Golden Gate 5.13b (8a) in a day, El Capitan (California, USA). Waka Flocka 5.14b (8c), Rifle (Colorado, USA).

Margo Hayes

Date of birth: February 11, 1998.

Place of birth: Boulder, Colorado, USA.

Specialty: Sport climbing. Notable ascents: La Rambla 9a+, Siurana (Catalonia). Papichulo 9a+, Oliana (Catalonia). Biographie 9a+, Céüse (France).

Lynn Hill

Date of birth: January 3, 1961.

Place of birth: Detroit, Michigan, USA.

Specialty: Sport climbing and big wall climbing.

Notable ascents: Masse Critique 8b+, Cimaï (France). First free ascent of The Nose, El Capitan (California, USA).

Daniel Woods

Date of birth: August 1, 1989.

Place of birth: Richardson, Texas, USA.

Specialty: Bouldering and sport climbing.

Notable ascents: Empath 5.15a (9a+), Tahoe (California, USA). La Capella 9b, Siurana

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