August 23, 2019 | TRIPS
Monte Rosa, Punta Dufour (4,634 m) is a relatively easy mountain, but with a few features that make it a very interesting climb. It's the second-highest peak in the Alps, after Mont Blanc. Its first ascent was in 1855. Constant views of the Matterhorn and the entire Lyskamm range offer a unique panorama throughout the climb.
The hike up to the refuge from Zermatt is straightforward. First, a small train that gains us some altitude, followed by about 3 hours to the Monte Rosa Hut. Well marked and with little elevation gain, it turns out to be a calm day. The second day on the mountain is what turns this into a real odyssey. Breakfast is served at the refuge at 2:30am. As soon as you open your eyes, more than a hundred people are already getting ready to head out. Everyone wants to save time, so harness, clothes, everything on, and off to breakfast. Right after, on go the boots, helmets, and headlamps, and out as fast as possible. We leave the refuge at 3am. We kept a steady pace, calm but without losing rhythm. We knew it would be a long day and we needed to catch the last train down to Zermatt before 8:30pm.
The first part of the route crosses rock, until we reach the glacier. Here we put on crampons and rope up. We split the team among the 3 guides. David and Albert each go with two clients, and I go with one, Jaume. All roped up, we check our crampons and set off, ice axe in hand. Now it's time to navigate crevasses under a spectacular full moon and a calm, clear sky. We're very lucky.
Little by little the terrain starts to get more difficult. We're not just gaining altitude — Jaume starts to feel it a bit, his head hurts slightly, and I notice the pace starting to slow. He also starts stopping a bit more often. We have to get across a steep ridge of fairly hard snow and ice. Maximum concentration. Inside, I know that if Jaume stumbles, I need to react very quickly to stop the fall before it has bigger consequences. I don't say anything, I hold the rope shorter, keep a bit more tension, and we keep moving. Soon we reach a stretch of ridge, not too difficult but where people start to bunch up. The exposure is high on both sides of the ridge. We make our way through, and then comes another, steeper ice ridge than the last. We get across it at a slow but steady pace. We're already above 4,000 meters, and the cold starts to bite. We know we're close to the summit, but this mountain doesn't give anything away for free. There's still one last ridge left to reach the top. This is where the roped teams coming down start crossing paths with those going up. It creates a bottleneck that at times feels like rush hour traffic in Barcelona. You have to be patient, stay calm, and push through the cold.
We finally reach the summit. All 8 of us stop up there. The clients relax a little, though they know this is only halfway — we still have a long way back. We enjoy the views, take photos, eat something. Meanwhile, we start weighing our descent options. We know there's a line of rappels and fixed ropes somewhere that would let us avoid retracing the ridges. We decide it's better to find those rappels. We find them quickly and start the descent. Two rappels, a few fixed ropes, and we're back on the glacier. Now it's time to rope up again and retrace the whole glacier back to the refuge.
We reach the refuge at 4pm. We're tired, it's hot, and we haven't eaten much. But we know we're on less committing terrain now, and we relax. We pack our bags and, after eating something, run to catch the last train. At 19:30 we catch the train, and now, finally, we can celebrate a great day in the mountains.
Route "Delenda Carthago," 180 meters, 6b. It's a modern-style route, generously bolted, and perfect for climbing on a cool autumn morning due to its south-facing orientation.
LEARN MOREA selection of the best spots to climb during winter in Siurana.
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(Translated by Google) cool experience
(Original)Experiencia genial
(Translated by Google) I did a ladder course to learn to go first and secure a first. Essential, super useful and practical. I have learned a lot about safety. It has helped me correct "bad vices" that I had and that can put my safety or that of my climbing partner at risk. And Santi, the instructor, a crack! He explains clearly, is patient, and is in everything. I have gained autonomy in climbing. Thank you for your dedication Santi! Recommended course 200%!
(Original) Hice un curso de escalafa para aprender a ir de primera y asegurar a un primero. Esencial, super util y pràctico. He aprendido mucho respecto a seguridad. Me ha ayudado a corregir "malos vicios" que tenia y que pueden poner en riesgo mi seguridad o la de mi compañer@ de escalada. Y Santi, el instructor, un crack! Explica con claridad, es paciente, y està en todo. He ganado en autonomia en la escalada. Gracias por tu dedicación Santi! Curso ecomendable 200%!
(Translated by Google) Highly recommended, they took us in a perfect environment for climbing, with other options in case it was very crowded, they taught us everything we needed to be able to be autonomous in terms of the most appropriate security techniques, practicing everything from there. first moment: go first, place the tapes well and plate, use the grigri in the safest way, make a meeting also in the safest way, and even fall and dynamization techniques. I am very grateful because they solved all my doubts and even helped me choose material!! Nice day of climbing, good people and a lot of learning! A hug to Santi and Yoel
(Original) Muy recomendable, nos llevaron en un entorno perfecto para escalar, con otras opciones por si estaba muy lleno de gente, nos enseñaron todo lo necesario para poder ser autónomo en lo que se refiere a las técnicas más adecuadas de seguridad, practicándolo todo des de el primer momento: ir de primero, colocar bien las cintaa y chapar, usar el grigri de la forma más segura, hacer una reunión también de la forma más segura, e incluso técnicas de caída y dinamización. Estoy muy agradecida porque resolvieron todas mis dudas e incluso me ayudaron a elegir material!! Día agradable de escalada, buena gente y mucho aprendizaje!! Un abrazo a Santi y Yoel
Had an amazing time learning to multi-pitch with Santi and Mariano in Montserrat. They were patient with us and taught us everything we need. We ended the day by climbing El Gorro Frigo (5 pitches).
(Translated by Google) Incredible experience with Yoel and the entire SouthClimb team! It has been a day full of learning! I will repeat 🙌🏻
(Original) Increible experiència con Yoel y todo el equipo SouthClimb! Ha sido una jornada llena de aprendizajes! Voy a repetir 🙌🏻
Just finished the 2-day multi pitch course. Excellent experience with our coach Santi, who is a professional and very experienced rock climber and alpinist.
We were taught all the techniques and logics to complete a multi pitch route in the mountains (the second day in Montserrat is amazing!).
We also had many nice small talks about risk management, how to start climbing multi pitch for beginners, etc.. Very nice people and vibe here ;)
(Translated by Google) Very good experience with Southclimb. I will repeat!
(Original) Muy buena experiencia con Southclimb. Repetiré!
(Translated by Google) I did a climbing course with my two children, everything was very well organized and we had a great time. I'm sure we'll do it again.
(Original) Hice un curso de escalada con mis dos hijos , todo muy bien organizado lo pasamos muy bien .Seguro que repetimos .
(Translated by Google) We did the long track course with Santi. The guy is a machine, he explains very well and gives a lot of security. Totally recommended.
(Original) Hicimos el curso de vía larga con Santi. El tio es un máquina, explica muy bien y da mucha seguridad. Totalmente recomendado.
(Translated by Google) 100% recommendable. Santi is a crack, and he explains himself great! Looking forward to repeat!!
(Original) 100% recomendable. Santi es un crack, y se explica genial! Con ganas de repetir!!
