August 23, 2019 | TRIPS
Monte Rosa, Punta Dufour (4,634 m) is a relatively easy mountain, but with a few features that make it a very interesting climb. It's the second-highest peak in the Alps, after Mont Blanc. Its first ascent was in 1855. Constant views of the Matterhorn and the entire Lyskamm range offer a unique panorama throughout the climb.
The hike up to the refuge from Zermatt is straightforward. First, a small train that gains us some altitude, followed by about 3 hours to the Monte Rosa Hut. Well marked and with little elevation gain, it turns out to be a calm day. The second day on the mountain is what turns this into a real odyssey. Breakfast is served at the refuge at 2:30am. As soon as you open your eyes, more than a hundred people are already getting ready to head out. Everyone wants to save time, so harness, clothes, everything on, and off to breakfast. Right after, on go the boots, helmets, and headlamps, and out as fast as possible. We leave the refuge at 3am. We kept a steady pace, calm but without losing rhythm. We knew it would be a long day and we needed to catch the last train down to Zermatt before 8:30pm.
The first part of the route crosses rock, until we reach the glacier. Here we put on crampons and rope up. We split the team among the 3 guides. David and Albert each go with two clients, and I go with one, Jaume. All roped up, we check our crampons and set off, ice axe in hand. Now it's time to navigate crevasses under a spectacular full moon and a calm, clear sky. We're very lucky.
Little by little the terrain starts to get more difficult. We're not just gaining altitude — Jaume starts to feel it a bit, his head hurts slightly, and I notice the pace starting to slow. He also starts stopping a bit more often. We have to get across a steep ridge of fairly hard snow and ice. Maximum concentration. Inside, I know that if Jaume stumbles, I need to react very quickly to stop the fall before it has bigger consequences. I don't say anything, I hold the rope shorter, keep a bit more tension, and we keep moving. Soon we reach a stretch of ridge, not too difficult but where people start to bunch up. The exposure is high on both sides of the ridge. We make our way through, and then comes another, steeper ice ridge than the last. We get across it at a slow but steady pace. We're already above 4,000 meters, and the cold starts to bite. We know we're close to the summit, but this mountain doesn't give anything away for free. There's still one last ridge left to reach the top. This is where the roped teams coming down start crossing paths with those going up. It creates a bottleneck that at times feels like rush hour traffic in Barcelona. You have to be patient, stay calm, and push through the cold.
We finally reach the summit. All 8 of us stop up there. The clients relax a little, though they know this is only halfway — we still have a long way back. We enjoy the views, take photos, eat something. Meanwhile, we start weighing our descent options. We know there's a line of rappels and fixed ropes somewhere that would let us avoid retracing the ridges. We decide it's better to find those rappels. We find them quickly and start the descent. Two rappels, a few fixed ropes, and we're back on the glacier. Now it's time to rope up again and retrace the whole glacier back to the refuge.
We reach the refuge at 4pm. We're tired, it's hot, and we haven't eaten much. But we know we're on less committing terrain now, and we relax. We pack our bags and, after eating something, run to catch the last train. At 19:30 we catch the train, and now, finally, we can celebrate a great day in the mountains.
Recommended activities to enjoy with family or friends on the Costa Dorada.
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We had the most awesome morning of climbing this morning. Thanks so much Santi!!
We had an awesome time with Mariano from South Climb! Did 2 days of guided climbing (first in Montserrat then in Gelida). It was great, he found routes that worked for both of us at our different levels (beginner and intermediate). He also had lots of tips to share to help us improve, which made the whole experience so much more valuable. Would highly recommend and would definitely come back!
(Translated by Google) Introductory climbing course 100% recommended! Santi is a great trainer with an excellent focus on safety. He pays a lot of attention to detail and his extensive experience supports him in the super useful advice that he shares in the conferences. And, as if that were not enough, all this with exceptional humor and good vibes!
(Original) Curso de iniciación a la escalada 100% recomendable! Santi es un gran formador con un enfoque en la seguridad excelente. Pone mucha atención al detalle y su amplia experiencia le abala en los consejos super útiles que comparte en las jornadas. Y, por si fuera poco, todo ello con un humor y un buen rollo excepcionales!
Santi is the best climbing guide you can imagine. As a reference, we two are 6a-7a climbers, but we wanted a local guide to help maximize efficiency in a foreign area. He was highly recommended to us by a friend who Santi guided a few months back, and he was as wonderful as described. He takes his role as Guide seriously and comprehensively, from helping you plan ideas for areas to concentrate on, considerations of weather and season, logistics for where to stay and how to get there (he picked us up one day, and we met him in our car another), as well as making himself available to help with any other questions or needs for the trip as a whole (not just the climbing part). Our long chain of detailed texts show how dedicated and sincere he is in wanting to help plan the best trip possible for you. This was highly unique, unexpected, above and beyond, and much appreciated. Before you've even met, he treats you more like a friend coming to visit Spain than a client that he is just doing business with, and that warmth goes a long way and sets him apart from most any other guide I've experienced (i've had great guides in my life, so this just reinforces Santi's particularly special character). Like I really felt like we were friends, and still feel like we are, as he reaches out and keeps in touch still and I really appreciate that relationship. Humanity, sincerity, and kindness in business--what a crazy (wonderful) concept! As a climbing guide specifically: he is consummately professional, impressively knowledgable and safe, as well as comfortingly sensitive to your climbing abilities and needs, and tailors each day with climbs that are perfect for you--if you want to be comfortable or if you want a little/big challenge, if you want to experience highlights of an area by switching up crags in the same day. He knows the areas so well and of course knows how to choose the walls that are in the shade or in the sun for whatever time of day or season you are climbing. There is so much variety and fun for either multi or single pitch too. In addition, when we were all climbed out for the day, he took the opportunity to show us the beauty of the local areas, playing also a photographer and travel guide. He also went home to let us borrow his guide book to other areas that we were headed to later, and kept in touch to make sure the rest of our trip went smoothly. So nice! Here is a person who treats his job as a climbing guide and ambassador for the area with such deep consideration and earnestness, and who treats his role as a human being with exceptional kindness and faith. We are so grateful that he came into our lives as a climbing guide and as a friend. Thank you Santi for being you, and please everyone call him now for any guiding adventures (he travels to guide too!) Also, his rates are so fair and reasonable. And you will be so happy if he is available to take you on an adventure with him! Cheers!
(Translated by Google) I went with southclimb to climb Margalef! It was my first rock baptism, an unforgettable experience! The monitor exudes professionalism and I felt very well, accompanied and above all safe. I will repeat without a doubt and I recommend it 100%!
(Original) Fuí con southclimb a escalar por Margalef! Fue mi primer bautizo en roca una experiencia inolvidable! El monitor derrocha profesionalidad y me sentí muy bien, acompañada y sobretodo segura. Repetiré sin duda y lo recomiendo 100%!
(Translated by Google) Excellent rock initiation course. Highly recommended!
(Original) Excelente curso de iniciación en roca. Altamente recomendable!
(Translated by Google) I did the introductory climbing course and the experience was very rewarding. With no knowledge of climbing I felt accompanied and safe at all times. Santi is a great teacher and you can see both his passion and his involvement. Very motivational and understanding. Totally recommended even for people without knowledge or practice.
(Original) Hice el curso de iniciación a la escalada y la experiencia fué muy gratificante. Con nulos conocimientos de escalada me sentí en todo momento acompañado y seguro. Santi es un gran profesor y se le nota tanto la pasión como la implicación. Muy motivacional y comprensivo. Totalmente recomendable hasta para gente sin conocimientos ni práctica.
(Translated by Google) Very nice. Punctual and also aware of you at all times. I will repeat
(Original) Muy agradables. Puntuales y además pendientes de ti en todo momento. Repetiré
(Translated by Google) Highly recommended course, especially for those who are new to climbing. Technician Yoel a 10!
(Original) Curso muy recomendable, sobretodo para aquellos que se inician en la escalada. El técnico Yoel un 10!
I joined the 2days-course of Sport Climbing in Siurana and Arboli. Very comprehensive learning - at the end you will be able to rock climb in complete autonomy. Super recommended!
