August 23, 2019 | TRIPS
Monte Rosa, Punta Dufour (4,634 m) is a relatively easy mountain, but with a few features that make it a very interesting climb. It's the second-highest peak in the Alps, after Mont Blanc. Its first ascent was in 1855. Constant views of the Matterhorn and the entire Lyskamm range offer a unique panorama throughout the climb.
The hike up to the refuge from Zermatt is straightforward. First, a small train that gains us some altitude, followed by about 3 hours to the Monte Rosa Hut. Well marked and with little elevation gain, it turns out to be a calm day. The second day on the mountain is what turns this into a real odyssey. Breakfast is served at the refuge at 2:30am. As soon as you open your eyes, more than a hundred people are already getting ready to head out. Everyone wants to save time, so harness, clothes, everything on, and off to breakfast. Right after, on go the boots, helmets, and headlamps, and out as fast as possible. We leave the refuge at 3am. We kept a steady pace, calm but without losing rhythm. We knew it would be a long day and we needed to catch the last train down to Zermatt before 8:30pm.
The first part of the route crosses rock, until we reach the glacier. Here we put on crampons and rope up. We split the team among the 3 guides. David and Albert each go with two clients, and I go with one, Jaume. All roped up, we check our crampons and set off, ice axe in hand. Now it's time to navigate crevasses under a spectacular full moon and a calm, clear sky. We're very lucky.
Little by little the terrain starts to get more difficult. We're not just gaining altitude — Jaume starts to feel it a bit, his head hurts slightly, and I notice the pace starting to slow. He also starts stopping a bit more often. We have to get across a steep ridge of fairly hard snow and ice. Maximum concentration. Inside, I know that if Jaume stumbles, I need to react very quickly to stop the fall before it has bigger consequences. I don't say anything, I hold the rope shorter, keep a bit more tension, and we keep moving. Soon we reach a stretch of ridge, not too difficult but where people start to bunch up. The exposure is high on both sides of the ridge. We make our way through, and then comes another, steeper ice ridge than the last. We get across it at a slow but steady pace. We're already above 4,000 meters, and the cold starts to bite. We know we're close to the summit, but this mountain doesn't give anything away for free. There's still one last ridge left to reach the top. This is where the roped teams coming down start crossing paths with those going up. It creates a bottleneck that at times feels like rush hour traffic in Barcelona. You have to be patient, stay calm, and push through the cold.
We finally reach the summit. All 8 of us stop up there. The clients relax a little, though they know this is only halfway — we still have a long way back. We enjoy the views, take photos, eat something. Meanwhile, we start weighing our descent options. We know there's a line of rappels and fixed ropes somewhere that would let us avoid retracing the ridges. We decide it's better to find those rappels. We find them quickly and start the descent. Two rappels, a few fixed ropes, and we're back on the glacier. Now it's time to rope up again and retrace the whole glacier back to the refuge.
We reach the refuge at 4pm. We're tired, it's hot, and we haven't eaten much. But we know we're on less committing terrain now, and we relax. We pack our bags and, after eating something, run to catch the last train. At 19:30 we catch the train, and now, finally, we can celebrate a great day in the mountains.
The figure-eight is the most widely used knot for tying in while climbing. We'll show you how to tie it correctly and what to keep in mind.
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We had an amazing climbing week with Santi. He was experienced and organized everything perfectly. Santi is encouraging, patient and truth worthy, I would climb with him if had chance!
I can’t say enough good things about my experience with SouthClimb. Let’s begin with how gorgeous Siurana was! Our guide Santi found an area and climbing routes that were fun and perfectly suited for the grades that myself and the other girl in our group climb. There were specific skills I wanted to work on (cleaning the anchor) and Santi climbed up the route next to one I climbed so that we could work through the process together in a way that was simple, clear, and made me feel safe. I HIGHLY recommend a tour with SouthClimb whether you’re very experienced and want a challenge or it’s your first day on the rock. Don’t hesitate to let your guide know if you have specific goals in mind, because they’re very kind and enthusiastic about helping you learn and grow in the sport. It was a gorgeous day and I am eager to spend more time with SouthClimb! A massive thanks to Santi!
(Translated by Google) I went with southclimb to climb Margalef! It was my first rock baptism, an unforgettable experience! The monitor exudes professionalism and I felt very well, accompanied and above all safe. I will repeat without a doubt and I recommend it 100%!
(Original) Fuí con southclimb a escalar por Margalef! Fue mi primer bautizo en roca una experiencia inolvidable! El monitor derrocha profesionalidad y me sentí muy bien, acompañada y sobretodo segura. Repetiré sin duda y lo recomiendo 100%!
(Translated by Google) Santi's mix of professionalism and good vibes makes the climbing experience complete: educational to learn and fun to enjoy. 100% recommended
(Original) La mezcla de profesionalidad y buena vibra de Santi hace que la experiencia de escalada sea completa: educativa para aprender y divertida para disfrutarla. Recomendado 100%
(Translated by Google) I highly recommend all the courses offered by Southclimb. Santiago is an extremely competent, professional, and fun instructor. The long distance course is an essential course for those who want to evolve in the world of climbing and Southclimb has provided me with this knowledge in a clear, objective and experience-based way. I will certainly take more courses! Thank you Santiago.
(Original) Recomiendo muchísimo todos los cursos ofrecidos por Southclimb. Santiago es un instructor extremadamente competente, profesional y divertido. El curso de larga distancia es un curso esencial para aquellos que desean evolucionar en el mundo de la escalada y Southclimb me ha proporcionado este conocimiento de una manera clara, objetiva y basada en la experiencia. Ciertamente tomaré más cursos! Gracias, Santiago.
(Translated by Google) Very good experience. Very clear in the explanations and seriousness in the security issue. All the content was addressed to be able to scale with autonomy
(Original) Muy buena experiencia. Mucha claridad en las explicaciones y seriedad en el tema de seguridad. Todo el contenido quedó abordado para poder escalar con autonomía
(Translated by Google) A great climbing teacher, a great mountaineer who transmits everything related to mountain activities very well.
(Original) Un grandísimo profesor de escalada, un gran montañero que transmite muy bién todo lo relacionado con las actividades de montaña..
(Translated by Google) Sport climbing course. Very educational and entertaining. Highly recommended!
(Original) Curso de escalada deportiva. Muy didáctico y entretenido. Muy recomendable!
(Translated by Google) We spent a great day learning to climb in very good company and in spectacular surroundings. Santi is a magnificent professional and knows how to convey the beauty of this sport to you. Looking forward to repeat!
(Original) Pasamos un gran día aprendiendo a escalar en muy buena compañia y en un entorno espectacular. Santi es un magnífico profesional y sabe transmitirte la belleza de este deporte. Con muchas ganas de repetir!
My goal coming to Spain was to get out for a couple days rock climbing with my family. I’m a fairly accomplished climber but the mechanics of trying to take the family out on my own. Mariano our guide was the perfect example of what a guide should be, he was quick to set up and take down the climbs, had the perfect eye for challenging but achievable routes for the family, was friendly, great with the kids, a just an all around good guy. I can’t recommend this company enough, and am already planning my return trip to Spain to climb with them.
