We arrived at Wadi Rum around 3am. The night is dark and the sky is cloudy. It had been raining all day, and the sand is wet. We rang the bell, and a few minutes later, Alia opened the door for us. Despite the early hour, she greeted us with a smile. One of her seven children accompanies us to our room, and without many questions, we go to sleep. In the morning, we will have time to get our bearings. We have been traveling for over 24 hours, dealing with canceled flights, delays, layovers, and taxis! This is our first trip to Wadi Rum, and we are definitely paying the price for being novices.

Wadi Rum is a special place. Hundreds of tourists visit this iconic landscape of Jordan every day, but few stay overnight. They hop on a 4x4 taxi to head towards the desert camps and then continue their journey to other attractions in Jordan, such as Petra, the Red Sea, or the Dead Sea. I dare say that only climbers, trekkers, and a few adventurous tourists decide to stay in Wadi Rum.

The guest houses are simple but offer sufficient amenities to stay as long as you want while climbing in the area. Generally, they provide private rooms with a shared kitchen and bathrooms. All the guest houses include half-board or full-board rates in their offerings.

Logistics

What do I need to travel to Jordan?

If you have a passport from the European Union, you can obtain a visa at the airports of Amman or Aqaba. The visa fee is 40 JD. Please note that if you fly to Aqaba, you may not be asked for a visa. This is quite random, so you should be prepared to pay the 40 JD upon arrival (credit cards are accepted). Alternatively, you have the option to get the Jordan Pass before your trip, which costs 70 JD. Theoretically, this includes the visa and entry to sites such as Petra, Wadi Rum, etc.

Where to fly?

You can fly to Aqaba or Amman. If you choose to fly to Amman, you'll need to take a taxi to Wadi Rum, which takes about 4 hours. The taxi fare from Amman to Wadi Rum is around 100 JD. If you decide to fly to Aqaba, the taxi to Wadi Rum costs 40 JD and takes approximately 1 hour.

Where to exchange money?

We exchanged €300 upon arrival at Amman airport, before getting the visa, so we had some cash to pay for the taxi and have extra for the first few days in Wadi Rum. However, the exchange rate at the airport is not favorable. Once you're in Wadi Rum, you can ask Alia to exchange money for you (they usually go to Aqaba every two or three days), and the exchange rate there is better.

Where to stay?

There are several places to stay in Wadi Rum, and they all cost roughly the same, but the comments and experiences can vary greatly. Without a doubt, we are convinced that the best place is Wadi Rum Sunrise Guest House. You can contact Alia on WhatsApp at the following number: +962 7 956 75327.

Alia and her entire family will make your stay unique. Her eldest son, Walid, can take you into the desert and knows where all the climbing routes are. Additionally, Alia's husband, Ali, runs a desert camp where you can spend the night and have a unique experience.

Sunrise offers private rooms for each group. The price is 25 JD per person and includes dinner and breakfast. There is a kitchen area available if you need it, although we didn't use it at all. They also have communal bathrooms and showers.

There are other places to stay, and we have heard all sorts of comments about them, but we haven't personally experienced them. We can only say that where we stayed, we felt at home, and it was essential to our overall experience.

Where to climb?

Within a short walking distance from the village of Wadi Rum, there are numerous climbing routes available. There is even a sport climbing area. The large wall near the village offers some classic routes, such as Inferno, Goldfinger, Queen of Desert, or Fight of Fancy.

If you walk a bit further, you can go and climb the fantastic Pillar of Wisdom or The Beauty, the latter being a must-do route during your visit to Jordan. 

To climb in the desert, you'll need to book a taxi (70 JD round trip) that can take you to places like Barrah Canyon, where you'll find iconic routes such as Merlin's Wand or Star of Abu Judahia.

Here is a list of recommended routes in Wadi Rum.

Please note that climbing on these walls requires a lot of experience. The routes are generally not equipped, and it is essential to know how to place traditional protection, build anchors, and especially manage rappels, which in many cases may be in poor condition and require careful evaluation. It is an absolute adventure terrain, not suitable for beginners.

Also, keep in mind that if it rains, you should wait at least 48 to 72 hours before climbing. The sandstone is very soft, and when it gets wet, it literally crumbles.

✓ The Beauty, 6b, 185m.

✓ Merlin's Wand, 6b, 235m.

✓ Star of Abu Judahia, 6C, 220m.

✓ Queen of Desert, 7a+, 470m.

✓ Inferno, 6a+, 150m.

✓ Troubador, 6c+, 150m.

✓ Fight of Fancy, 6b+, 130m.

✓ Black Magic, 6a, 365m.

✓ Guerra Santa, 7b, 400m.

✓ Pillar of Wisdom, 6a, 330m.

✓ Lionheart, 6b, 350m.

There are hundreds of routes. This is just a selection of the classics. You can find all the route descriptions at Wadi Rum Sunrise Guest House or online (through an extensive search).

What equipment do I need for climbing in Wadi Rum?

Each route requires specific gear, but generally, the necessary equipment will include:

• 2 sets of totems or camalots up to size 4. It's not a bad idea to bring triple the number of medium-sized ones for certain routes.
• At least one camalot size 5 and one camalot size 6 for certain routes.
• Extensible quickdraws (alpine draws).
• Cordelette for anchors and extra cordelette for reinforcing rappels.
• Double ropes.
• Sleeping bag (for staying at the guesthouse and in the desert; don't forget to bring a sleeping pad).
• Headlamp (there are countless stories of climbers descending in the dark after getting lost on descents).
• Harness and helmet.

Our final assessment

Wadi Rum is undoubtedly a place we will return to. It has captivated us. Adventure climbing on good rock with extraordinary cracks, and the people of Wadi Rum are incredible! It is a place you must visit at least once in your life if you enjoy climbing on big walls.