August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
Wadi Rum is undoubtedly a place we will return to. It has captivated us. Adventure climbing on good rock with extraordinary cracks.
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(Translated by Google) It was a perfect day! The activity was very well organized and the experience was positive! Now I look forward to the next appointment, raising the level and learning more!
(Original) Fue un dia perfecto! La actividad muy bien organitzada y la experiència positiva! Ahora ya espero para la siguientre cita, subiendo el nivel y aprendiendo mas!
(Translated by Google) Super good experience with a super monitor, Santi, with a lot of patience, a lot of attention and good vibes. Highly recommended.
(Original) Súper buena experiencia con un súper monitor, Santi, con mucha paciencia, mucha atención y buen rollo. Muy recomendable.
(Translated by Google) Bua the fear management course in very very top climbing. We all left highly motivated and with a lot of tools to continue working. Santi is a person who gives a lot of confidence and transmits absolute tranquility and affection. 100% I will do a course again!
(Original) Bua el curso de gestión del miedo en escalada muy muy top. Nos fuimos todos ultra motivados y con un montón de herramientas para seguir trabajando. Santi es una persona que da muchísima confianza y transmite una tranquilidad y cariño absolutos. 100% volveré a hacer un curso!
Just finished the 2-day multi pitch course. Excellent experience with our coach Santi, who is a professional and very experienced rock climber and alpinist.
We were taught all the techniques and logics to complete a multi pitch route in the mountains (the second day in Montserrat is amazing!).
We also had many nice small talks about risk management, how to start climbing multi pitch for beginners, etc.. Very nice people and vibe here ;)
Santi is the best climbing guide you can imagine. As a reference, we two are 6a-7a climbers, but we wanted a local guide to help maximize efficiency in a foreign area. He was highly recommended to us by a friend who Santi guided a few months back, and he was as wonderful as described. He takes his role as Guide seriously and comprehensively, from helping you plan ideas for areas to concentrate on, considerations of weather and season, logistics for where to stay and how to get there (he picked us up one day, and we met him in our car another), as well as making himself available to help with any other questions or needs for the trip as a whole (not just the climbing part). Our long chain of detailed texts show how dedicated and sincere he is in wanting to help plan the best trip possible for you. This was highly unique, unexpected, above and beyond, and much appreciated. Before you've even met, he treats you more like a friend coming to visit Spain than a client that he is just doing business with, and that warmth goes a long way and sets him apart from most any other guide I've experienced (i've had great guides in my life, so this just reinforces Santi's particularly special character). Like I really felt like we were friends, and still feel like we are, as he reaches out and keeps in touch still and I really appreciate that relationship. Humanity, sincerity, and kindness in business--what a crazy (wonderful) concept! As a climbing guide specifically: he is consummately professional, impressively knowledgable and safe, as well as comfortingly sensitive to your climbing abilities and needs, and tailors each day with climbs that are perfect for you--if you want to be comfortable or if you want a little/big challenge, if you want to experience highlights of an area by switching up crags in the same day. He knows the areas so well and of course knows how to choose the walls that are in the shade or in the sun for whatever time of day or season you are climbing. There is so much variety and fun for either multi or single pitch too. In addition, when we were all climbed out for the day, he took the opportunity to show us the beauty of the local areas, playing also a photographer and travel guide. He also went home to let us borrow his guide book to other areas that we were headed to later, and kept in touch to make sure the rest of our trip went smoothly. So nice! Here is a person who treats his job as a climbing guide and ambassador for the area with such deep consideration and earnestness, and who treats his role as a human being with exceptional kindness and faith. We are so grateful that he came into our lives as a climbing guide and as a friend. Thank you Santi for being you, and please everyone call him now for any guiding adventures (he travels to guide too!) Also, his rates are so fair and reasonable. And you will be so happy if he is available to take you on an adventure with him! Cheers!
(Translated by Google) Climbing course adapted to everyone's level. Intensive learning with a guide, Sara, who has been helping us all the time and setting us challenges. It has been 6 hours but it has flown by. We will repeat for sure!
(Original) Curs d'escalada adaptat al nivell de cadascú. Intensiu d'aprenentatges amb una guia, la Sara, que ha estat tota l'estona ajudant-nos i plantejant-nos reptes. Han estat 6 hores però ha passat volant. Repetirem segur!
(Translated by Google) Brutal experience! Dynamic, very instructive, great team and very professional monitor.
(Original) Experiencia brutal! Dinamica, muy instructiva, gran equipo y monitor muy profesional.
(Translated by Google) Rappelling course in the Mussara, excellent monitor, explanations of 10 and fantastic practices. I recommend 100%
(Original) Curso de rapel en la Mussara, monitor excelente, explicaciones de 10 y prácticas fantásticas. Recomiendo 100%
We had an amazing climbing week with Santi. He was experienced and organized everything perfectly. Santi is encouraging, patient and truth worthy, I would climb with him if had chance!
(Translated by Google) It has been a very good experience taking the climbing initiation course, we have learned basic concepts in a very entertaining and fun way. 100% recommendable. Surely we will repeat with the course a little more advanced! Thank you Santi and Guillem!
(Original) Ha sido una muy buena experiencia realizar el curso de iniciación a la escalada, hemos aprendido conceptos básicos de manera muy amena y divertida. 100% recomendable. Seguro que repetiremos con el curso un poco mas avanzado! Gracias Santi y Guillem !
