August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
How do you choose the perfect climbing course? Here are the essential criteria to make the best decision.
LEARN MOREA selection of the best spots to climb during winter in Siurana.
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(Translated by Google) We made a climbing baptism. We had a great time. Santi is super professional. An entertaining day suitable for all ages. It does not require prior knowledge of climbing.
(Original) Realizamos un bautizo de escalada. Lo pasamos genial. Santi es super profesional. Un dia entretenido apto para todas las edades. No requiere conocimiento previo sobre escalada.
(Translated by Google) I did an initiation course in climbing and it has helped me to start with safety and knowledge. I highly recommend him and Santi is an excellent trainer.
(Original) Hice un curso de iniciación a la escalada y me ha servido para poder iniciarme con seguridad y conocimientos. Lo recomiendo mucho y Santi es un formador excelente.
(Translated by Google) I've started climbing through @southclimb and it's been a wonderful journey. Thank you Santi for everything you have learned, for motivating us to continue growing, for transmitting values to us, for highlighting our small achievements and for the laughter, which is also important. Apart from being a great professional, a great person.
(Original) Me he iniciado en la escalada a través de @southclimb y está siendo un viaje maravilloso. Gracias Santi por todo lo aprendido, por motivarnos a seguir creciendo, a transmitirnos valores, por realzar nuestros pequeños logros y por las risas, que también son importantes. A parte de gran profesional, una gran persona.
Had a blast on my multipitch course with Southclimb! Everything was clearly explained and I had enough opportunities to practice. Good athmosphere and awesome routes, would definitely recommend!!
(Translated by Google) This has been an incredible experience. From the beginning, the instructor gave me confidence and security both in the explanations that were very clear, and then when practicing climbing. You end up feeling like you've been climbing for a long time, even if it's your first time. We will repeat.
(Original) Ha esta una experiència increíble. Des del principi el monitor m'ha trasmès confianza i seguretat tant en les explicacions que han estat molt clares, com desprès a l'hora de practicar l'escalada. Acabes amb la sensació de que portes molt de temps fent escalada, encara que sigui la primera vegada que ho fas. Repetirem.
(Translated by Google) We did an initiation course in mountaineering where we learned many things, from the use of the ARVA, walking with snowshoes, the use of crampons and setting up meetings. We had a great time and Santi is an excellent teacher. Completely recommended to take courses with Southclimb
(Original) Hicimos un curso de iniciación en alpinismo donde aprendimos muchas cosas, desde la utilización del ARVA, caminar con raquetas, uso de crampones y montar reuniones. La pasamos muy bien y Santi es un excelente profe. Completamente recomendable hacer cursos con Southclimb
We had the most awesome morning of climbing this morning. Thanks so much Santi!!
(Translated by Google) Incredible climbing baptism!! It has been a great experience from start to finish. We have enjoyed, laughed and, above all, learned a lot! Thank you Santi for this great morning and for the confidence and security you give!!! We will repeat without a doubt ☺️
(Original) Bautizo de escalada increíble!! Ha sido una grandísima experiencia de principio a fin. Hemos disfrutado, reído y, sobretodo, aprendido muchísimo!! Gracias Santi por esta estupenda mañana y por la confianza y seguridad que das!!! Repetiremos sin duda ☺️
(Translated by Google) A beautiful day, the Montserrat area spectacular for climbing, Santi super nice and professional! Thank you for this beautiful day. I hope to be able to repeat soon.
(Original) Un día precioso, la área de Montserrat espectacular para escalar, Santi súper agradable y profesional! Gracias por este día tan bonito. Espero poder repetir pronto.
(Translated by Google) I went with southclimb to climb Margalef! It was my first rock baptism, an unforgettable experience! The monitor exudes professionalism and I felt very well, accompanied and above all safe. I will repeat without a doubt and I recommend it 100%!
(Original) Fuí con southclimb a escalar por Margalef! Fue mi primer bautizo en roca una experiencia inolvidable! El monitor derrocha profesionalidad y me sentí muy bien, acompañada y sobretodo segura. Repetiré sin duda y lo recomiendo 100%!
