August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
If you are a nature and adventure enthusiast, Montserrat awaits you with open arms.
LEARN MOREDiscover the Sol Solet Climbing Route in Can Jorba, MontserratMontserrat, with its unique rock formations and spectacular landscapes, is an iconic climbing destination in Catalonia. Within this rock paradise, the Sol Solet route in Can Jorba stands out as one of the most accessible and enjoyable climbs for those seeking a combination of adventure and natural beauty
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I joined the 2days-course of Sport Climbing in Siurana and Arboli. Very comprehensive learning - at the end you will be able to rock climb in complete autonomy. Super recommended!
(Translated by Google) We did the Sport Climbing course with Mariano, between Montserrat and Gelida. The course was very interesting, Mariano's treatment was great. Not only did he teach us the necessary maneuvers, but he gave us an extra dose of motivation to keep climbing and learning.
(Original) Vam fer el curs d'Escalada Esportiva amb en Mariano, entre Montserrat i Gelida. El curs va ser molt interessant, el tracte d'en Mariano ha estat genial. No només ens va ensenyar les maniobres necessàries, sinó que ens va donar una dosi extra de motivació per seguir escalant i aprenent.
This was, without a doubt, an incredible climbing experience - and all because we hired Santi of SouthClimb in Barcelona. He was kind, helpful, considerate, knowledgeable, encouraging, and made this an awesome day of multi-pitch climbing at Montserrat. Highly highly highly recommend him!!!!👍🤗🤩
(Translated by Google) Highly recommended, they took us in a perfect environment for climbing, with other options in case it was very crowded, they taught us everything we needed to be able to be autonomous in terms of the most appropriate security techniques, practicing everything from there. first moment: go first, place the tapes well and plate, use the grigri in the safest way, make a meeting also in the safest way, and even fall and dynamization techniques. I am very grateful because they solved all my doubts and even helped me choose material!! Nice day of climbing, good people and a lot of learning! A hug to Santi and Yoel
(Original) Muy recomendable, nos llevaron en un entorno perfecto para escalar, con otras opciones por si estaba muy lleno de gente, nos enseñaron todo lo necesario para poder ser autónomo en lo que se refiere a las técnicas más adecuadas de seguridad, practicándolo todo des de el primer momento: ir de primero, colocar bien las cintaa y chapar, usar el grigri de la forma más segura, hacer una reunión también de la forma más segura, e incluso técnicas de caída y dinamización. Estoy muy agradecida porque resolvieron todas mis dudas e incluso me ayudaron a elegir material!! Día agradable de escalada, buena gente y mucho aprendizaje!! Un abrazo a Santi y Yoel
(Translated by Google) A great climbing teacher, a great mountaineer who transmits everything related to mountain activities very well.
(Original) Un grandísimo profesor de escalada, un gran montañero que transmite muy bién todo lo relacionado con las actividades de montaña..
(Translated by Google) A beautiful day, the Montserrat area spectacular for climbing, Santi super nice and professional! Thank you for this beautiful day. I hope to be able to repeat soon.
(Original) Un día precioso, la área de Montserrat espectacular para escalar, Santi súper agradable y profesional! Gracias por este día tan bonito. Espero poder repetir pronto.
(Translated by Google) I have been with Santi, he is the best monitor you can have, he explains very well, he teaches perfectly and you laugh a lot with him, of course it makes you want to repeat the experience
(Original) Yo he estado con Santi és el mejor monitor que se puede tener, explica muy bien enseña perfectamente y te ríes mucho con él, desde luego que te dan ganas de repetir la experiencia
(Translated by Google) We did the initiation course with Santi and he was super useful to get in touch with rock climbing and have all the security measures. The routes that we did were very cool and Santi is a very nice and professional person. Now for the second course!!!
(Original) Hicimos el curso de iniciación con Santi y fue super útil para entrar en contacto con la escalada en roca y tener todas las medidas de seguridad. Las vías que hicimls fueron muy chulas y Santi es una persona muy agradable y profesional. ¡¡¡Ahora a por el segundo curso!!!
(Translated by Google) Great experience! A spectacular treatment, they have adapted perfectly to my schedules and needs. It has been two days of the course where I have learned a lot, I have felt safe at all times, they have helped me with the necessary material and most importantly I have had a great time! Thank you Santi for your quick response and organization and special mention to Mariano who is a guide of 10! I will definitely contact them again to do the long track course!
(Original) Experiencia genial! Un trato espectacular, se han adaptado perfectamente a mis horarios y necesidades. Han sido dos dias de curso donde he aprendido muchísimo, me he sentido seguro en todo momento, me han ayudado con el material necesario y lo más importante me lo he pasado genial! Gracias Santi por su rápida respuesta y organización y especial mención a Mariano que es un guía de 10! Sin duda volveré a contactar con ellos para hacer el curso de vía larga!
(Translated by Google) A very good experience! The truth is that climbing with Santi I learned many things and had even more fun. The explanations were very practical and useful. I wanted to repeat the experience and continue learning. Thank you!
(Original) ¡Una experiència muy buena! La verdad es que escalando con Santi aprendí muchas cosas y me divertí aún más. Las explicaciones fueron muy prácticas e útiles. Me quedé con ganas de repetir la experiencia y seguir aprendiendo. ¡Gracias!
