August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
A selection of the best spots to climb during winter in Siurana.
LEARN MOREMargalef is one of Europe’s premier sport climbing destinations. Its pocketed conglomerate rock creates a very specific climbing style requiring finger strength, body positioning, and tactical pacing.
LEARN MOREYou can contact us via email at [email protected] or by phone to (+34) 645 432 307, or by filling up the contact form in the following link.
(Translated by Google) With Santi and SouthClimb, you don't just learn how to do figure eights, how to do the gri-gri, how to be the first... You also learn what it means to be a good climber and especially accompanied by a beautiful person. Lots of love and looking forward to seeing you again soon!! // With Santi and SouthClimb you don't just learn to tie knots, use the gri-gri or go first... You learn what it means to be a good climber and above all accompanied by a beautiful person. Much love and waiting for the reunion soon!!
(Original) Amb el Santi i amb SouthClimb no només aprens a fer vuits, a fer anar el gri-gri, a fer de primer... Si no que aprens el que és ser un bon escalador i sobretot acompanyat d'una persona preciosa. Molt d'amor i amb ganes de retrobar-nos ben aviat!! // Con Santi y con SouthClimb no solo aprendes a hacer nudos, a usar el gri-gri o a ir de primero... Si no que aprendes el que es ser un buen escalador y sobre todo acompañado de una persona preciosa. Mucho amor y esperando el re-encuentro pronto!!
(Translated by Google) It was a perfect day! The activity was very well organized and the experience was positive! Now I look forward to the next appointment, raising the level and learning more!
(Original) Fue un dia perfecto! La actividad muy bien organitzada y la experiència positiva! Ahora ya espero para la siguientre cita, subiendo el nivel y aprendiendo mas!
(Translated by Google) Incredible climbing baptism!! It has been a great experience from start to finish. We have enjoyed, laughed and, above all, learned a lot! Thank you Santi for this great morning and for the confidence and security you give!!! We will repeat without a doubt ☺️
(Original) Bautizo de escalada increíble!! Ha sido una grandísima experiencia de principio a fin. Hemos disfrutado, reído y, sobretodo, aprendido muchísimo!! Gracias Santi por esta estupenda mañana y por la confianza y seguridad que das!!! Repetiremos sin duda ☺️
(Translated by Google) A beautiful day, the Montserrat area spectacular for climbing, Santi super nice and professional! Thank you for this beautiful day. I hope to be able to repeat soon.
(Original) Un día precioso, la área de Montserrat espectacular para escalar, Santi súper agradable y profesional! Gracias por este día tan bonito. Espero poder repetir pronto.
(Translated by Google) My 12 year old son and I (50) did the rock baptism. I have no climbing experience. It was great. Santi very attentive and friendly at all times. It gave us a lot of security. It adapts perfectly to the level of each one and encourages you to improve yourself. Without a doubt, totally recommended! Thank you very much for everything Santa!
(Original) Hicimos el bautizo en roca mi hijo de 12 años y yo (50). Yo sin ninguna experiencia en escalada. Fue genial. Santi muy atento y simpático en todo momento. Nos dio mucha seguridad. Se adapta perfectamente al nivel de cada uno y anima a superarte. Sin duda alguna totalmente recomendable! Muchas gracias por todo Sant!
(Translated by Google) I did an initiation course in climbing and it has helped me to start with safety and knowledge. I highly recommend him and Santi is an excellent trainer.
(Original) Hice un curso de iniciación a la escalada y me ha servido para poder iniciarme con seguridad y conocimientos. Lo recomiendo mucho y Santi es un formador excelente.
Santi was the most amazing guide. As a first time climber, he made me feel super safe and confident on the climb. It was so much fun and an afternoon I will remember for a long time. Honestly cannot recommend enough 😊
(Translated by Google) Nice and very attentive
(Original)Agradables y muy atentos
(Translated by Google) I did the long route course with Santi and the experience was excellent, with great emphasis on safety and all the factors to take into account when planning a long route and the necessary manoeuvres. The practice day left us to work and find our way on our own, intervening when necessary and always keeping a watchful eye that everything was done safely. Always with good humor and good treatment, which is not less in situations of nerves and tension. Thank you so much!
(Original) Hice el curso de vía larga con Santi y la experiencia fue excelente, con mucho énfasis en la seguridad y todos las factores a tener en cuenta para planificar una vía larga y las maniobras necesarias. El día de práctica nos dejó trabajar y buscar camino solos, interviniendo cuando era necesario y manteniendo siempre una mirada atenta a que todo esté hecho de manera segura. Siempre con buen humor y buen trato, que no es menor en situaciones de nervios y de tensión. Muchas gracias!
(Translated by Google) Brutal fear management course! Highly recommended to have strategies to deal with it! Some cracks Santi and Sol!!
(Original) Brutal el curso de gestión del miedo! Muy recomendable para tener estrategias para afrontarlo! Unos cracks Santi y Sol!!
