August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
Wadi Rum is undoubtedly a place we will return to. It has captivated us. Adventure climbing on good rock with extraordinary cracks.
LEARN MOREFrom beginners discovering outdoor climbing to elite climbers projecting some of the hardest routes in the world, Siurana has become an iconic location in the international climbing community.
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Santi was the most amazing guide. As a first time climber, he made me feel super safe and confident on the climb. It was so much fun and an afternoon I will remember for a long time. Honestly cannot recommend enough 😊
(Translated by Google) The best way to get started in rock climbing. We have felt super safe, everything very well explained and we have had a great time. 100% recommended!
(Original) La mejor manera para iniciarse en la escalada en roca. Nos hemos sentido súper seguros, todo muy bien explicado y nos lo hemos pasado genial. Recomendable 100%!
I organised a 4hr climbing session in Siurana for 10 children (mostly aged 8-9) and Santi was super easy to communicate with and organise everything remotely. He arranged 2 guides, all the equipment, safe briefing and everything you would need for a half day of fun climbing. The kids really enjoyed themselves and learnt so much along the way. Some were beginners, others had climbed before and the guides were very helpful and supportive. I highly recommend Southclimb and we can’t wait to go climbing with them again.
(Translated by Google) I did a ladder course to learn to go first and secure a first. Essential, super useful and practical. I have learned a lot about safety. It has helped me correct "bad vices" that I had and that can put my safety or that of my climbing partner at risk. And Santi, the instructor, a crack! He explains clearly, is patient, and is in everything. I have gained autonomy in climbing. Thank you for your dedication Santi! Recommended course 200%!
(Original) Hice un curso de escalafa para aprender a ir de primera y asegurar a un primero. Esencial, super util y pràctico. He aprendido mucho respecto a seguridad. Me ha ayudado a corregir "malos vicios" que tenia y que pueden poner en riesgo mi seguridad o la de mi compañer@ de escalada. Y Santi, el instructor, un crack! Explica con claridad, es paciente, y està en todo. He ganado en autonomia en la escalada. Gracias por tu dedicación Santi! Curso ecomendable 200%!
(Translated by Google) A great climbing day!
(Original)Un dia d'escalada genial!
First of all, I want to thank Santi - our rock climbing guide - for an excellent teaching!!⚡️
He was consistent, attentive to our strengths and weaknesses, inspiring confidence and really professional (technically and psychologically)!
I finally overcome my fear of lead rope climbing which followed me for a long long time… A friend of mine had his first time real rock climbing and now he already knows both types (lead and top) of climbing and belaying!🤯
And it hasn't felt like a boring studying with a tired of all this annoying tourists instructor. Santi was behaving not just as a mentor, but also as a friend of us🤝🏻
Hope to climb together one day again✨🏔️
(Translated by Google) Super didactic and entertaining rappelling workshop, I have learned a lot and gained confidence. Santi is a great professional who knows how to teach and transmit in a very practical way. I'll be doing another one of your workshops soon. 😉
(Original) Taller de rapel super didáctico y entretenido,he aprendido mucho y cogido confianza. Santi un gran profesional que save enseñar y transmitir de una manera muy práctica. No tardaré en hacer otro de sus talleres. 😉
(Translated by Google) Super happy with the climbing course!! It was just what we were looking for
(Original) Super contentos con el curso de escalada!! Era justo lo que buscábamos
(Translated by Google) Super experience! We have spent a fantastic morning and very comfortable with Santi. Without having any experience it has been very profitable and fun, we have loved it. Great Santi, thank you very much!! A pleasure to have shared this moment with you! Just great!! Highly recommended!!
(Original) Súper experiencia! Hemos pasado una mañana fantástica y muy a gusto con Santi. Sin tener nada de experiencia ha sido muy provechoso y divertido, nos ha encantado. Gran Santi, muchas gracias!! Un placer haber compartido este momento contigo! Simplemente Genial!! Muy recomendable!!
(Translated by Google) Incredible climbing baptism!! It has been a great experience from start to finish. We have enjoyed, laughed and, above all, learned a lot! Thank you Santi for this great morning and for the confidence and security you give!!! We will repeat without a doubt ☺️
(Original) Bautizo de escalada increíble!! Ha sido una grandísima experiencia de principio a fin. Hemos disfrutado, reído y, sobretodo, aprendido muchísimo!! Gracias Santi por esta estupenda mañana y por la confianza y seguridad que das!!! Repetiremos sin duda ☺️
