August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
The province of Tarragona has some of the best areas in the world for sport climbing. Discover our selection.
LEARN MORERoute "Delenda Carthago," 180 meters, 6b. It's a modern-style route, generously bolted, and perfect for climbing on a cool autumn morning due to its south-facing orientation.
LEARN MOREYou can contact us via email at [email protected] or by phone to (+34) 645 432 307, or by filling up the contact form in the following link.
(Translated by Google) Highly recommended course, especially for those who are new to climbing. Technician Yoel a 10!
(Original) Curso muy recomendable, sobretodo para aquellos que se inician en la escalada. El técnico Yoel un 10!
(Translated by Google) I did a climbing course with my two children, everything was very well organized and we had a great time. I'm sure we'll do it again.
(Original) Hice un curso de escalada con mis dos hijos , todo muy bien organizado lo pasamos muy bien .Seguro que repetimos .
Had an amazing time learning to multi-pitch with Santi and Mariano in Montserrat. They were patient with us and taught us everything we need. We ended the day by climbing El Gorro Frigo (5 pitches).
(Translated by Google) It has been a very good experience taking the climbing initiation course, we have learned basic concepts in a very entertaining and fun way. 100% recommendable. Surely we will repeat with the course a little more advanced! Thank you Santi and Guillem!
(Original) Ha sido una muy buena experiencia realizar el curso de iniciación a la escalada, hemos aprendido conceptos básicos de manera muy amena y divertida. 100% recomendable. Seguro que repetiremos con el curso un poco mas avanzado! Gracias Santi y Guillem !
(Translated by Google) We did the initiation course with Santi and he was super useful to get in touch with rock climbing and have all the security measures. The routes that we did were very cool and Santi is a very nice and professional person. Now for the second course!!!
(Original) Hicimos el curso de iniciación con Santi y fue super útil para entrar en contacto con la escalada en roca y tener todas las medidas de seguridad. Las vías que hicimls fueron muy chulas y Santi es una persona muy agradable y profesional. ¡¡¡Ahora a por el segundo curso!!!
(Translated by Google) It's been a fantastic Sunday!!! I never imagined I could climb. I am quite afraid of heights but this experience has made me overcome many of those fears and thanks, especially to Santi, the monitor. I recommend it!!! Without a doubt!!!💪🏽😍😍
(Original) Ha sido un domingo fantástico!!! Nunca imaginé que pudiera escalar. Tengo bastante miedo a las alturas pero esta experiencia me ha hecho superar muchos de esos miedos y gracias , sobre todo a Santi, el monitor. Lo recomiendo!!! Sin duda!!!💪🏽😍😍
(Translated by Google) An incredible experience! Many thanks to the SouthClimb team and especially Santi, for a magnificent day of climbing! We will repeat for sure.
(Original) Una experiencia increíble! Muchas gracias al equipo de SouthClimb y en especial a Santi, por una magnífica jornada de escalada! Repetiremos seguro.
(Translated by Google) We have spent an incredible weekend. Santi is very attentive, super good vibes and makes you feel safe at all times. It also gives enough freedom so that you have the confidence in yourself to move forward. He is very fond of him, you can tell he enjoys his work :) We have been wanting more!
(Original) Hemos pasado un fin de semana increíble. Santi es muy atento, super buen rollo y te hace sentir seguro en todo momento. También da la libertad suficiente para que tengas confianza en ti mismo para avanzar. Le pone mucho cariño, se nota que disfruta con su trabajo :) Nos hemos quedado con ganas de más!
Just finished the 2-day multi pitch course. Excellent experience with our coach Santi, who is a professional and very experienced rock climber and alpinist.
We were taught all the techniques and logics to complete a multi pitch route in the mountains (the second day in Montserrat is amazing!).
We also had many nice small talks about risk management, how to start climbing multi pitch for beginners, etc.. Very nice people and vibe here ;)
(Translated by Google) Introductory ladder course highly recommended and great! Our guide Sara is a crack and very professional! A very pleasant atmosphere and environment! To repeat this or other courses!! Thanks team!!
(Original) Curs d'inici d'escala més que recomanable i genial! La nostra guia Sara una crack i molt professional! Un ambient i entorn molt agradable! Per repetir aquest o altres cursos!! Gràcies equip!!
