August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
How do you choose the perfect climbing course? Here are the essential criteria to make the best decision.
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(Translated by Google) An incredible experience. I hope to return on the rock very soon
(Original) Una experiencia increible. Espero volver en la roca muy pronto
(Translated by Google) We did an initiation course in mountaineering where we learned many things, from the use of the ARVA, walking with snowshoes, the use of crampons and setting up meetings. We had a great time and Santi is an excellent teacher. Completely recommended to take courses with Southclimb
(Original) Hicimos un curso de iniciación en alpinismo donde aprendimos muchas cosas, desde la utilización del ARVA, caminar con raquetas, uso de crampones y montar reuniones. La pasamos muy bien y Santi es un excelente profe. Completamente recomendable hacer cursos con Southclimb
I organised a 4hr climbing session in Siurana for 10 children (mostly aged 8-9) and Santi was super easy to communicate with and organise everything remotely. He arranged 2 guides, all the equipment, safe briefing and everything you would need for a half day of fun climbing. The kids really enjoyed themselves and learnt so much along the way. Some were beginners, others had climbed before and the guides were very helpful and supportive. I highly recommend Southclimb and we can’t wait to go climbing with them again.
(Translated by Google) A beautiful day, the Montserrat area spectacular for climbing, Santi super nice and professional! Thank you for this beautiful day. I hope to be able to repeat soon.
(Original) Un día precioso, la área de Montserrat espectacular para escalar, Santi súper agradable y profesional! Gracias por este día tan bonito. Espero poder repetir pronto.
(Translated by Google) Excellent course with Santi. I have done the rock climbing initiation course, a very complete course and ideal for those people who have never rock climbed or who already climb but want to improve. Apart from the great professionalism and confidence that he transmits at all times, I want to highlight the detail of being very aware of each one of us (group of 6 people). It has also taken into account the weather and the sectors where to climb without wind or cold. Very highly recommended!
(Original) Excelente curso con Santi. He hecho el curso de iniciación a escalada en Roca, curso muy completo y ideal para esas personas que no han escalado en roca nunca o que ya escalan pero quieren perfeccionar. A parte de la gran profesionalidad y confianza que transmite en todo momento, quiero destacar el detalle de estar muy pendiente de cada uno de nosotros (grupo de 6 personas). También ha tenido en cuenta la meteo y los sectores dónde escalar sin viento ni frío. Muy muy recomendable!
(Translated by Google) 🔝🔝🔝🧗♀️🧗♀️🧗♀️A great morning, in a brutal environment!!! Thank you Santi, we climbed like never before and learned how to start rock climbing with total safety and confidence!!! You are crack!!! You nailed it 😜 😘
(Original) 🔝🔝🔝🧗♀️🧗♀️🧗♀️Un matí genial, en un entorn brutal!!! Gràcies Santi, hem xalat com mai i hem après a iniciar-nos en l'escalada en roca amb total seguretat i confiança!!! Sou uns cracks!!! Ho heu petat 😜 😘
(Translated by Google) I went with southclimb to climb Margalef! It was my first rock baptism, an unforgettable experience! The monitor exudes professionalism and I felt very well, accompanied and above all safe. I will repeat without a doubt and I recommend it 100%!
(Original) Fuí con southclimb a escalar por Margalef! Fue mi primer bautizo en roca una experiencia inolvidable! El monitor derrocha profesionalidad y me sentí muy bien, acompañada y sobretodo segura. Repetiré sin duda y lo recomiendo 100%!
Beginner’s course in rope climbing with Sol was the best! Sol is super professional and patient and everything is done in humor and good atmosphere. We feel ready to go out and climb! Santi helped us with all the logistics and made it really easy and comfortable to get started. 10/10 experience we will definitely come back for more of Southclimb.
Great experience!!! Santi is a professional guide, he has a lot of experience and explains very well, patient. The course was very complete and great as a new experience,..
(Translated by Google) Highly recommended course, especially for those who are new to climbing. Technician Yoel a 10!
(Original) Curso muy recomendable, sobretodo para aquellos que se inician en la escalada. El técnico Yoel un 10!
