August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
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(Translated by Google) Excellent rock initiation course. Highly recommended!
(Original) Excelente curso de iniciación en roca. Altamente recomendable!
(Translated by Google) Introductory ladder course highly recommended and great! Our guide Sara is a crack and very professional! A very pleasant atmosphere and environment! To repeat this or other courses!! Thanks team!!
(Original) Curs d'inici d'escala més que recomanable i genial! La nostra guia Sara una crack i molt professional! Un ambient i entorn molt agradable! Per repetir aquest o altres cursos!! Gràcies equip!!
I did a five-day climbing camp with Southclimb and it was an excellent way to get familiar with climbing in one of the best climbing spots in the world!
Carolina, our instructor, was a lot of fun, kept morale high despite the unexpected bad weather conditions. She supported me with all my questions about climbing and pushed me to trust myself more. I also appreciate Santi for good communication with me from the very start and handling the camp shortening professionally, offering a fair solution when the weather forced us to cancel a few days.
Despite the unexpected challenges, the whole experience was very positive, and I look forward to climbing with them again in Siurana!
(Translated by Google) Super didactic and entertaining rappelling workshop, I have learned a lot and gained confidence. Santi is a great professional who knows how to teach and transmit in a very practical way. I'll be doing another one of your workshops soon. 😉
(Original) Taller de rapel super didáctico y entretenido,he aprendido mucho y cogido confianza. Santi un gran profesional que save enseñar y transmitir de una manera muy práctica. No tardaré en hacer otro de sus talleres. 😉
(Translated by Google) I did an initiation course with Santi and it was amazing, I learned a lot and I had a great time, super nice at all times and above all very concerned about safety. As soon as I can I will sign up for more activities! I highly recommend it!!!
(Original) Hice un curso de iniciación con Santi y fue una pasada, aprendí un montón y me lo pasé genial, super agradable en todo momento y sobretodo muy preocupado por la seguridad. En cuanto pueda me apuntaré a más actividades! Lo recomiendo a tope!!!
(Translated by Google) A very good experience! The truth is that climbing with Santi I learned many things and had even more fun. The explanations were very practical and useful. I wanted to repeat the experience and continue learning. Thank you!
(Original) ¡Una experiència muy buena! La verdad es que escalando con Santi aprendí muchas cosas y me divertí aún más. Las explicaciones fueron muy prácticas e útiles. Me quedé con ganas de repetir la experiencia y seguir aprendiendo. ¡Gracias!
We did a two-day climbing course in Siurana and Arboli and couldn't be happier. Giordano is one of the best guides I have gone out climbing with, he explains things super well and has something to offer no matter your level. The communication with SouthClimb before the course was smooth - they gave us good recommendations about the best ways to get to the area, places to stay, and what to expect.
(Translated by Google) We are a family with two young children and we stayed with Southclimb for a day of sport climbing. We felt safe at all times, and we were struck by the great professionalism and very friendly treatment. We spent an unforgettable day!
(Original) Somos una familia con dos niños pequeños y estuvimos con Southclimb para disfrutar de un día de escalada deportiva. Nos sentimos seguros en todo momento, y nos llamó la atención la gran profesionalidad y el trato muy amable. Pasamos un día inolvidable!
(Translated by Google) Brutal fear management course! Highly recommended to have strategies to deal with it! Some cracks Santi and Sol!!
(Original) Brutal el curso de gestión del miedo! Muy recomendable para tener estrategias para afrontarlo! Unos cracks Santi y Sol!!
(Translated by Google) It has been a pleasure to do the via Larga climbing course with Santi. We learned a lot and had a great time both days. Santi has been like a friend and teacher. Soon we will return to do more courses with you. Gasss
(Original) Ha sido un placer hacer el curso de escalada de via larga con santi. Aprendimos mucho y nos lo pasamos muy bien los dos dias. Santi ha sido como un amigo y profesor. En breves volveremos para hacer mas cursos con vosotros. Gasss
