August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
Route "Delenda Carthago," 180 meters, 6b. It's a modern-style route, generously bolted, and perfect for climbing on a cool autumn morning due to its south-facing orientation.
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We had an amazing morning climbing with Santi in Arboli. We were all beginners and Santi was very patient and helpful and adapted everything to our level. 100% recommendable!!
(Translated by Google) I did a ladder course to learn to go first and secure a first. Essential, super useful and practical. I have learned a lot about safety. It has helped me correct "bad vices" that I had and that can put my safety or that of my climbing partner at risk. And Santi, the instructor, a crack! He explains clearly, is patient, and is in everything. I have gained autonomy in climbing. Thank you for your dedication Santi! Recommended course 200%!
(Original) Hice un curso de escalafa para aprender a ir de primera y asegurar a un primero. Esencial, super util y pràctico. He aprendido mucho respecto a seguridad. Me ha ayudado a corregir "malos vicios" que tenia y que pueden poner en riesgo mi seguridad o la de mi compañer@ de escalada. Y Santi, el instructor, un crack! Explica con claridad, es paciente, y està en todo. He ganado en autonomia en la escalada. Gracias por tu dedicación Santi! Curso ecomendable 200%!
(Translated by Google) Santi and the entire team of professionals who work with him are incredible... if I had to choose one word it would be EXCELLENCE. transmits so much security, that you only receive fun and learning. He is warm, human, ready to solve any unforeseen event. Start the day with a guide and end with a friend. He also advises you before the activity, and also after... You can write to him a month later and he will help you buy a harness, or he will give you a discount on climbing shoes. Is incredible. He is very passionate, you can see that despite the 25 years he has been dedicating himself to this, he still has that spark, that enthusiasm, and he transmits it. I honestly recommend it.
(Original) Santi y todo el equipo de profesionales que trabajan con él son increíbles... si tuviera que elegir una palabra sería EXCELENCIA. transmite tanta seguridad, que tu solo recibes diversión y aprendizaje. Es cálido, humano, listo para solucionar cualquier imprevisto. Empieza el día teniendo un guía y terminas teniendo un amigo. Además te asesora antes de la actividad, y también después... Puedes escribirle un mes mas tarde y te ayudará a comprar un arnés, o te dará un descuento en pies de gatos. Es increíble. Es muy apasionado, se ve que a pesar de los 25 años que lleva dedicándose a esto, sigue teniendo esa chispa, ese entusiasmo, y lo transmite. Sinceramente, lo recomiendo.
(Translated by Google) Highly recommended course, especially for those who are new to climbing. Technician Yoel a 10!
(Original) Curso muy recomendable, sobretodo para aquellos que se inician en la escalada. El técnico Yoel un 10!
Excellent day, great spots for climbing, safe and clear instructions. The views were incredible over the valley.
Everything was perfect. Santi is a very experienced climber and an amazing teacher. we enjoyed alot with my friends and can’t wait to do it again.
Great experience. Santi arranged and communicated all the logistics very well. Giordano was a great instructor and made the experience fun and comfortable. Will recommend Southclimb.
(Translated by Google) I've started climbing through @southclimb and it's been a wonderful journey. Thank you Santi for everything you have learned, for motivating us to continue growing, for transmitting values to us, for highlighting our small achievements and for the laughter, which is also important. Apart from being a great professional, a great person.
(Original) Me he iniciado en la escalada a través de @southclimb y está siendo un viaje maravilloso. Gracias Santi por todo lo aprendido, por motivarnos a seguir creciendo, a transmitirnos valores, por realzar nuestros pequeños logros y por las risas, que también son importantes. A parte de gran profesional, una gran persona.
(Translated by Google) It has been a pleasure to do the via Larga climbing course with Santi. We learned a lot and had a great time both days. Santi has been like a friend and teacher. Soon we will return to do more courses with you. Gasss
(Original) Ha sido un placer hacer el curso de escalada de via larga con santi. Aprendimos mucho y nos lo pasamos muy bien los dos dias. Santi ha sido como un amigo y profesor. En breves volveremos para hacer mas cursos con vosotros. Gasss
This was, without a doubt, an incredible climbing experience - and all because we hired Santi of SouthClimb in Barcelona. He was kind, helpful, considerate, knowledgeable, encouraging, and made this an awesome day of multi-pitch climbing at Montserrat. Highly highly highly recommend him!!!!👍🤗🤩
