August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
Wadi Rum is undoubtedly a place we will return to. It has captivated us. Adventure climbing on good rock with extraordinary cracks.
LEARN MOREIf you’ve ever found yourself clinging to a rock wall with sweaty hands, shaky muscles, and a racing heart, you’ve probably asked yourself: why on earth am I doing this? What is it about rock climbing that draws us in? What’s the point of all this effort to scale rocks and mountains?
LEARN MOREYou can contact us via email at [email protected] or by phone to (+34) 645 432 307, or by filling up the contact form in the following link.
(Translated by Google) I have been with Santi, he is the best monitor you can have, he explains very well, he teaches perfectly and you laugh a lot with him, of course it makes you want to repeat the experience
(Original) Yo he estado con Santi és el mejor monitor que se puede tener, explica muy bien enseña perfectamente y te ríes mucho con él, desde luego que te dan ganas de repetir la experiencia
Great experience. Santi arranged and communicated all the logistics very well. Giordano was a great instructor and made the experience fun and comfortable. Will recommend Southclimb.
(Translated by Google) I love Santi, he knows what he teaches. He dominates the subject, he pressures you to understand it and, above all, he is aware of all the details. He is there at all times, I don't know how he does it. If you really want to learn this is your Guide... I recommend it a thousand and especially if you have some internal fears to solve. You will never feel unprotected. Always with care and love. Safe laughs. A thousand recommended if you don't believe me go to any course you want with him and you'll want to continue learning your test and you won't be wrong. For my top!!!!
(Original) Me encanta Santi, Sabe lo que ensena. Domina el tema, te presiona para que lo captes y sobre todo esta pendiente de todos los detalles. El esta en todos los momentos no se como lo hace. Si quieres aprender de verdad este es tu Guia.... Lo recomiendo mil y sobre todo si tienes algunos miedos internos que resolver. Nunca te sentiras desprotegido. Siempre con mimo y amor. Risas seguras. Mil recomendado si no me crees ve con el a algun curso el que quieras y querras seguir aprendiendo tu prueba y no te equivocaras. Para mi top!!!!
We did a two-day climbing course in Siurana and Arboli and couldn't be happier. Giordano is one of the best guides I have gone out climbing with, he explains things super well and has something to offer no matter your level. The communication with SouthClimb before the course was smooth - they gave us good recommendations about the best ways to get to the area, places to stay, and what to expect.
We had an amazing experience with Southclimb. Santi, our guide, was friendly, patient and clear throughout our three days together. He kept things moving at a pace that was ideal for our level of experience, and made sure we were able to cover all the things we were looking for help with. We’re looking forward to coming back in the future for the next steps in our climbing journey. Thanks again Santi!
(Translated by Google) My 12 year old son and I (50) did the rock baptism. I have no climbing experience. It was great. Santi very attentive and friendly at all times. It gave us a lot of security. It adapts perfectly to the level of each one and encourages you to improve yourself. Without a doubt, totally recommended! Thank you very much for everything Santa!
(Original) Hicimos el bautizo en roca mi hijo de 12 años y yo (50). Yo sin ninguna experiencia en escalada. Fue genial. Santi muy atento y simpático en todo momento. Nos dio mucha seguridad. Se adapta perfectamente al nivel de cada uno y anima a superarte. Sin duda alguna totalmente recomendable! Muchas gracias por todo Sant!
(Translated by Google) The course has been very good! Thank you very much Santi for transmitting your enthusiasm for climbing and all your explanations. A great experience that I hope to repeat soon! Thank you!
(Original) El curso ha estado muy bien! Muchas gracias Santi por transmitirnos tu entusiasmo por la escalada y todas tus explicaciones. Una gran experiencia que espero poder repetir de aquí poco! Mil gracias!
We had an amazing climbing week with Santi. He was experienced and organized everything perfectly. Santi is encouraging, patient and truth worthy, I would climb with him if had chance!
(Translated by Google) Super didactic and entertaining rappelling workshop, I have learned a lot and gained confidence. Santi is a great professional who knows how to teach and transmit in a very practical way. I'll be doing another one of your workshops soon. 😉
(Original) Taller de rapel super didáctico y entretenido,he aprendido mucho y cogido confianza. Santi un gran profesional que save enseñar y transmitir de una manera muy práctica. No tardaré en hacer otro de sus talleres. 😉
(Translated by Google) A very good experience. Santi has been very clear in all the explanations and has been very helpful in introducing us to the world of climbing. Great, we'll see you in another course for sure!
(Original) Una experiencia muy buena. Santi ha sido muy claro en todas las explicaciones y nos ha sido de mucha ayuda para introducirnos en el mundo de la escalada. Genial, nos veremos en otro curso seguro!
