August 23, 2023 | CLIMBING
PEDRAFORCA. CLIMBING IN THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
Pedraforca is one of the mountains with the most myths and legends in existence.
The Pollegó Superior (2,506 meters) is the highest peak of the Pedraforca massif, located in the Berguedà region, between the villages of Gósol and Saldes. Over the years, Pedraforca has been the scene of legendary climbs, both on rock and ice, although you can also reach the summit by walking. On foot, there are two classic paths: one climbs a long, vertical, and challenging scree slope, which is accessed a few kilometers after leaving the Lluís Estasen Refuge, located in a beautiful meadow at 1,675 meters above sea level. The other path goes up the Canal del Verdet, a vertical and demanding route, where you even have to use your hands to progress at times.
If you have climbing knowledge and want to enjoy a high-mountain atmosphere in every sense, the most elegant way to reach some of the highest points of Pedraforca is by climbing.
The history of climbing on the Pedraforca massif began with Lluís Estasen, Josep Puntas, Jofre Vila, and Josep Rovira, who, after several attempts on June 30, 1928, managed to establish an intelligent route along the north face of the mountain, eventually reaching the Calderer summit.
The "Vía Estasen", the name of the route, is an itinerary of about 600 meters, with difficulties of up to IV+. The route is sparsely equipped, and despite what the guide may suggest, you need to know how to navigate the wall to always follow the most logical path. The atmosphere is wild and alpine, making the activity a day of classic climbing in capital letters.
If you want to know more about the history of the first ascent of the north face of Pedraforca, you can watch the documentary "L’altra cara de la forca" (2008), a historical reenactment of the climb by Estasen, Vila, and Rovira. Here's the link for the documentary.
Although without a doubt the "Vía Estasen" is the best-known climbing route on Pedraforca, there are many other options on the massif to enjoy some of the best limestone rock in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Also on the north face, one alternative to the "Vía Estasen" during the warmer months is "Homedes" (430m V+/AO). This route leads to the summit of Gat, a characteristic peak known by that name because it resembles a cat.
The first ascent of "Homedes" dates back to the year when Francesc Homedes, Bernard Boixeda, and Ramon Albareda achieved it on September 8. The route is semi-equipped, and in addition to several quickdraws, a full set of aliens, friends up to #3, and some nuts are needed. The difficulty is consistently around IV+, with occasional passages of V/V+.
To descend from the Gat summit, we'll first do a rappel, which will leave us on the ever-present scree slope, the same way down if we climbed the "Vía Estasen".
Often, we think that to enjoy the high mountains, we must travel to the Pyrenees, Alps, or Dolomites, but we forget about other must-visit places. The Pedraforca massif is one of them. A mountain with a summit at 2,506 meters above sea level, breathtaking views, and an exceptional alpine atmosphere. Everyone should climb Pedraforca at least once in their life.
History, Popular Routes, and Logistics
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(Translated by Google) I did an initiation course with Santi and it was amazing, I learned a lot and I had a great time, super nice at all times and above all very concerned about safety. As soon as I can I will sign up for more activities! I highly recommend it!!!
(Original) Hice un curso de iniciación con Santi y fue una pasada, aprendí un montón y me lo pasé genial, super agradable en todo momento y sobretodo muy preocupado por la seguridad. En cuanto pueda me apuntaré a más actividades! Lo recomiendo a tope!!!
I had a great experience today climbing with Giordano in Garraf! Just driving to the location was beautiful and the views once you reached the top were spectacular! I felt very safe with my instructor and he balanced making sure I had fun with safety, which you could tell was his priority. He was so encouraging throughout my climbs and made me feel good about what capabilities I had. I will be looking into taking a course with southclimb now and would recommend them to others. Santi was exceptional with communication on WhatsApp and made the entire process very smooth and simple. Thank you!
We had an amazing experience with Southclimb. Santi, our guide, was friendly, patient and clear throughout our three days together. He kept things moving at a pace that was ideal for our level of experience, and made sure we were able to cover all the things we were looking for help with. We’re looking forward to coming back in the future for the next steps in our climbing journey. Thanks again Santi!
(Translated by Google) 100% recommendable. Santi is a crack, and he explains himself great! Looking forward to repeat!!
(Original) 100% recomendable. Santi es un crack, y se explica genial! Con ganas de repetir!!
(Translated by Google) Excellent rock initiation course. Highly recommended!
(Original) Excelente curso de iniciación en roca. Altamente recomendable!
Just finished the 2-day multi pitch course. Excellent experience with our coach Santi, who is a professional and very experienced rock climber and alpinist.
We were taught all the techniques and logics to complete a multi pitch route in the mountains (the second day in Montserrat is amazing!).
We also had many nice small talks about risk management, how to start climbing multi pitch for beginners, etc.. Very nice people and vibe here ;)
(Translated by Google) A great experience with a better professional !!! 100% recommended.
(Original) Una gran experiencia con un mejor profesional!!! 100% recomendado.
(Translated by Google) A unique experience next to a great professional. The fear management course makes you spend a weekend connecting with yourself, nature, you meet new crazy companions... and always all the exercises safely next to a very close psychologist. For me, an experience of 10, where (regardless of the level you have) it is useful to stop grabbing the rock with your teeth and enjoy the fluidity and the fall, since it is part of climbing.
(Original) Una experiencia única al lado de un gran profesional. El curso de gestión del miedo te hace pasar un fin de semana de conexión contigo, la naturaleza, conoces nuevos compañeros de locuras… y siempre todos los ejercicios de forma segura al lado de una psicologa muy cercana. Para mi, una experiencia de 10, donde (tengas el nivel que tengas) es útil para dejar de cogerte a la roca con los dientes y disfrutar de la fluidez y de la caída, ya que forma parte de la escalada.
I can’t say enough good things about my experience with SouthClimb. Let’s begin with how gorgeous Siurana was! Our guide Santi found an area and climbing routes that were fun and perfectly suited for the grades that myself and the other girl in our group climb. There were specific skills I wanted to work on (cleaning the anchor) and Santi climbed up the route next to one I climbed so that we could work through the process together in a way that was simple, clear, and made me feel safe. I HIGHLY recommend a tour with SouthClimb whether you’re very experienced and want a challenge or it’s your first day on the rock. Don’t hesitate to let your guide know if you have specific goals in mind, because they’re very kind and enthusiastic about helping you learn and grow in the sport. It was a gorgeous day and I am eager to spend more time with SouthClimb! A massive thanks to Santi!
(Translated by Google) I have done the initiation course and I liked it a lot, because of the content, relaxed atmosphere and at the same time serious in relation to safety. I will surely sign up for more activities!
(Original) He he hecho el curso de iniciación y me ha gustado mucho, por el contenido, clima descontraído y a la vez serio en relación a la seguridad. Seguramente me apuntaré a más actividades!
