March 30, 2022 | CLIMBING
Did you know that when you tie a knot in a dyneema sling, it loses up to fifty percent of its strength?
Even so, many people use this material to build multi-pitch anchors. Several tests carried out by some of the leading climbing brands, such as DMM and Black Diamond, have shown that a knotted dyneema sling can break from just the energy generated by a factor 1 fall (if you don't know what a factor 1 fall is, we recommend watching this video).
From our point of view, we can use either dyneema slings or cordelette, as long as we consider the anchors we're building the belay on and understand the limitations of each material. For example, if we're building the anchor on two bolts with parabolts, which we consider safe and reliable, we can use a dyneema sling without any problem, since the odds of one of these points failing are very low or nonexistent, and therefore the risk of generating a fall factor capable of breaking the sling is very low.
However, if we're building the anchor on removable protection (cams or nuts) or on unreliable gear such as pitons or bolts, our recommendation is to always use a cordelette at least 7 mm in diameter. A cordelette offers more dynamism when absorbing the forces generated by a fall or the failure of one of the anchor points, which reduces the overload placed on the remaining point or points. It would also be more resistant, giving us a lower risk of the cordelette breaking.
Lightweight and easy to carry
Fast to build the anchor with
Only suitable for reliable anchors (parabolts in good condition)
Difficult to untie the knot once it's been loaded
Loses strength when a knot is tied in it
Limited length (60 or 120 cm)
Static material
Low abrasion resistance
Can be used on any type of anchor
Length can be easily adjusted
Allows for more efficient anchors with multiple points
Dynamic material
More resistant to abrasion
Heavier, bulkier material
For us, there's no absolute answer. We'll always assess the situation and use the gear we have while understanding its limitations. Cordelette is undoubtedly more versatile for building an anchor, since we can adjust its length and it gives us greater safety when building anchors on removable protection. However, if we know we'll be climbing routes where the anchors are fully equipped with parabolts in good condition, a 120 cm dyneema sling could be a good option.
Note: The information provided in this article does not replace the training provided by a climbing course.
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(Translated by Google) Fantastic course on fear management in climbing. Magnificent professionals have offered us a very useful and unforgettable experience.
(Original) Fantástico curso de gestión del miedo en la escalada. Los profesionales magníficos, nos han ofrecido una experiencia muy útil e inolvidable.
(Translated by Google) Very good experience. Montserrat is beautiful, ideal for all levels. Santi explained it to us superbly, with a lot of patience and humor. Highly recommended
(Original) Molt bona experiència. Montserrat és preciós, ideal per tots els nivells. El Santi ens ho ha explicat superbé, amb momta paciència i humor. Molt recomanable
(Translated by Google) Incredible climbing baptism!! It has been a great experience from start to finish. We have enjoyed, laughed and, above all, learned a lot! Thank you Santi for this great morning and for the confidence and security you give!!! We will repeat without a doubt ☺️
(Original) Bautizo de escalada increíble!! Ha sido una grandísima experiencia de principio a fin. Hemos disfrutado, reído y, sobretodo, aprendido muchísimo!! Gracias Santi por esta estupenda mañana y por la confianza y seguridad que das!!! Repetiremos sin duda ☺️
Had a blast on my multipitch course with Southclimb! Everything was clearly explained and I had enough opportunities to practice. Good athmosphere and awesome routes, would definitely recommend!!
(Translated by Google) Santi transmits confidence and gives you security. His explanations are clear. He knows the areas and the best places for each level well. To repeat!!!
(Original) Santi transmite confianza y te da seguridad. Sus explicaciones son claras. Conoce bien las zonas y los mejores sitios para cada nivel. Para repetir!!!
(Translated by Google) Highly recommended course, especially for those who are new to climbing. Technician Yoel a 10!
(Original) Curso muy recomendable, sobretodo para aquellos que se inician en la escalada. El técnico Yoel un 10!
Excellent day, great spots for climbing, safe and clear instructions. The views were incredible over the valley.
(Translated by Google) A few hours of very pleasant climbing in Arbolí with the children. Great success, with a great time. Santi, the mountain guide, takes care of everything: the material, the routes, the level of difficulty adapted to each one, the photos, the security, and also his attention to everyone and everything for the preparation, before meeting to climb . Southclimb offers the knowledge and experience that allow you to learn, overcome limits, gain confidence, enjoy and share unforgettable family moments. A thousand thanks to you Santi Valerga
(Original) Unas horas de escalada muy agradables en Arbolí con los niños. Gran éxito, con un tiempo estupendo. Santi, el guia de montaña, se encarga de todo : el material, las rutas, el nivel de dificultad adaptado a cada uno, las fotos, la seguridad, y también su atenciòn a todos y todo para la preparaciòn, antes de reunirse para escalar. Southclimb ofrece el saber y la experiencia que permiten aprender, superar limites, tomar confianza, disfrutar y compartir inolvidables momentos de familia. Mil gracias a ti Santi Valerga
(Translated by Google) 100% recommendable. Santi is a crack, and he explains himself great! Eager to repeat!!
(Original) 100% recomendable. Santi es un crack, y se explica genial! Con ganas de repetir!!
(Translated by Google) Highly recommended for people who want to start climbing or want to improve. Excellent and experienced guides, and good atmosphere. You learn and have a good time. What more could you want?
(Original) Muy recomendado para personas que quieran iniciarse en la escalada o quieran mejorar. Guías excelentes y experimentados, y buen ambiente. Aprendes y lo pasas bien. Qué más se puede pedir?
