30 de Marzo del 2022 | ESCALADA
¿CINTAS DE DYNEEMA O CORDINOS PARA LAS REUNIONES EN VÍA LARGA?
¿Qué utilizas para construir tus reuniones en vía larga? Aquí te damos nuestra opinion y que conviene utilizar en cada situación.
¿Qué utilizas para construir tus reuniones en vía larga? Aquí te damos nuestra opinion y que conviene utilizar en cada situación.
Aun así muchas personas utilizan este material para construir las reuniones en vía larga. En varias pruebas realizadas por algunas de las marcas de escaladas líderes, como DMM o Black Diamond, se ha demostrado que una cinta de dyneema con un nudo puede romperse tan solo con la energía generada por una caída de factor 1 (si no sabes que es una caída de factor 1, te recomendamos que mires este video).
Desde nuestro punto de vista podemos utilizar cintas de dyneema o cordinos, siempre y cuando consideremos los anclajes sobre los cuales construimos la reunión y entendamos las limitaciones de cada material. Así por ejemplo, si vamos a confeccionar la reunión sobre dos chapas con parabolts, los cuales consideramos seguros y fiables, podemos utilizar una cinta de dyneema sin problema ya que las probabilidades de que alguno de estos puntos falle es muy baja o nula y por lo tanto los riesgos de generar un factor de caída susceptible de romper la cinta son muy bajos.
Sin embargo, si vamos a construir la reunión sobre material móvil (empotradores o tascones) o poco fiable como por ejemplo pitones o buriles, nuestra recomendación es siempre utilizar cordinos de 7 mm de diámetro como mínimo. El cordino presenta mayor dinamismo a la hora de trabajar con las fuerzas que puede generar una caída o la falla de uno de los puntos de anclaje y esto reduce la sobrecarga que se produciría sobre el o los puntos restantes. Además sería más resistente y tendríamos un menor riesgo de rotura del cordino.
Para nosotros no existe una respuesta absoluta. Siempre evaluaremos las circunstancias y haremos uso del material que tenemos entendiendo sus limitaciones. Sin duda los cordinos son más polivalentes a la hora de construir una reunion, podemos ajustar el largo y nos dará una mayor seguridad a la hora de montar reuniones sobre seguros móviles. Sin embargo si sabemos que vamos a escalar vías en las cuales las reuniones están completamente equipadas con parabolts y en buen estado, una cinta de dyneema de 120cm podría ser una opción correcta.
Nota: La información ofrecida en este articulo no sustituye la formación que brinda un curso de escalada.
Te dejamos una selección de vías largas de iniciación en Montserrat para que puedas poner en practica todas las maniobras de seguridad y técnicas de progresión aprendidas en nuestros cursos.
VER MAS"Hice un ejercicio de visualización de todas las cosas e inquietudes que yo tenía cuando empecé a escalar, cosas que a veces ni te planteas cómo pueden llegar a cambiar el juego de la escalada en el futuro". - Lary Arce.
VER MASNos puedes contactar via email a [email protected] o por teléfono al (+34) 645 432 307. O rellenando el formulario de contacto en el siguiente link.
I joined the 2days-course of Sport Climbing in Siurana and Arboli. Very comprehensive learning - at the end you will be able to rock climb in complete autonomy. Super recommended!
Santi is the best climbing guide you can imagine. As a reference, we two are 6a-7a climbers, but we wanted a local guide to help maximize efficiency in a foreign area. He was highly recommended to us by a friend who Santi guided a few months back, and he was as wonderful as described. He takes his role as Guide seriously and comprehensively, from helping you plan ideas for areas to concentrate on, considerations of weather and season, logistics for where to stay and how to get there (he picked us up one day, and we met him in our car another), as well as making himself available to help with any other questions or needs for the trip as a whole (not just the climbing part). Our long chain of detailed texts show how dedicated and sincere he is in wanting to help plan the best trip possible for you. This was highly unique, unexpected, above and beyond, and much appreciated. Before you've even met, he treats you more like a friend coming to visit Spain than a client that he is just doing business with, and that warmth goes a long way and sets him apart from most any other guide I've experienced (i've had great guides in my life, so this just reinforces Santi's particularly special character). Like I really felt like we were friends, and still feel like we are, as he reaches out and keeps in touch still and I really appreciate that relationship. Humanity, sincerity, and kindness in business--what a crazy (wonderful) concept! As a climbing guide specifically: he is consummately professional, impressively knowledgable and safe, as well as comfortingly sensitive to your climbing abilities and needs, and tailors each day with climbs that are perfect for you--if you want to be comfortable or if you want a little/big challenge, if you want to experience highlights of an area by switching up crags in the same day. He knows the areas so well and of course knows how to choose the walls that are in the shade or in the sun for whatever time of day or season you are climbing. There is so much variety and fun for either multi or single pitch too. In addition, when we were all climbed out for the day, he took the opportunity to show us the beauty of the local areas, playing also a photographer and travel guide. He also went home to let us borrow his guide book to other areas that we were headed to later, and kept in touch to make sure the rest of our trip went smoothly. So nice! Here is a person who treats his job as a climbing guide and ambassador for the area with such deep consideration and earnestness, and who treats his role as a human being with exceptional kindness and faith. We are so grateful that he came into our lives as a climbing guide and as a friend. Thank you Santi for being you, and please everyone call him now for any guiding adventures (he travels to guide too!) Also, his rates are so fair and reasonable. And you will be so happy if he is available to take you on an adventure with him! Cheers!
Excellent day, great spots for climbing, safe and clear instructions. The views were incredible over the valley.
(Translated by Google) A very good experience! The truth is that climbing with Santi I learned many things and had even more fun. The explanations were very practical and useful. I wanted to repeat the experience and continue learning. Thank you!
(Original) ¡Una experiència muy buena! La verdad es que escalando con Santi aprendí muchas cosas y me divertí aún más. Las explicaciones fueron muy prácticas e útiles. Me quedé con ganas de repetir la experiencia y seguir aprendiendo. ¡Gracias!
(Translated by Google) Great 10/10
(Original)Genial 10/10
(Translated by Google) My 12 year old son and I (50) did the rock baptism. I have no climbing experience. It was great. Santi very attentive and friendly at all times. It gave us a lot of security. It adapts perfectly to the level of each one and encourages you to improve yourself. Without a doubt, totally recommended! Thank you very much for everything Santa!
(Original) Hicimos el bautizo en roca mi hijo de 12 años y yo (50). Yo sin ninguna experiencia en escalada. Fue genial. Santi muy atento y simpático en todo momento. Nos dio mucha seguridad. Se adapta perfectamente al nivel de cada uno y anima a superarte. Sin duda alguna totalmente recomendable! Muchas gracias por todo Sant!
(Translated by Google) We did a climbing baptism yesterday with Santi and we loved it, he was super attentive, kind and always attentive to you, he made us feel safe and enjoy ourselves a lot. I recommend it 100%.
(Original) Hicimos un bautizo de escalada ayer con Santi y nos encantó, el super atento, amable y en todo momento está pendiente de ti, hizo que nos sintiéramos seguros y disfrutáramos mucho. Lo recomiendo 100%.
(Translated by Google) We made a climbing baptism. We had a great time. Santi is super professional. An entertaining day suitable for all ages. It does not require prior knowledge of climbing.
(Original) Realizamos un bautizo de escalada. Lo pasamos genial. Santi es super profesional. Un dia entretenido apto para todas las edades. No requiere conocimiento previo sobre escalada.
(Translated by Google) I did the long route course with Santi and the experience was excellent, with great emphasis on safety and all the factors to take into account when planning a long route and the necessary manoeuvres. The practice day left us to work and find our way on our own, intervening when necessary and always keeping a watchful eye that everything was done safely. Always with good humor and good treatment, which is not less in situations of nerves and tension. Thank you so much!
(Original) Hice el curso de vía larga con Santi y la experiencia fue excelente, con mucho énfasis en la seguridad y todos las factores a tener en cuenta para planificar una vía larga y las maniobras necesarias. El día de práctica nos dejó trabajar y buscar camino solos, interviniendo cuando era necesario y manteniendo siempre una mirada atenta a que todo esté hecho de manera segura. Siempre con buen humor y buen trato, que no es menor en situaciones de nervios y de tensión. Muchas gracias!
Santi is an amazing teacher. It is very clear that he has a lot of experience and you can ask him anything about climbing amongst other things. Santi is also super friendly and easy to get along with. I would absolutely recommend the lead-climbing course I did here. It felt very professional and complete and I think it is one of the best ones you can get. Another note; Santi made awesome pictures of us :-), thank you so much for everything!
