The Naranjo de Bulnes, also known as Picu Urriellu, is one of Spain’s most iconic mountains and a must-visit destination for climbers from around the world. Located in the heart of the Picos de Europa in Asturias, the Naranjo is distinguished by its imposing vertical walls, making it an iconic challenge for rock climbing enthusiasts. In this blog post, we’ll explore its history, the most popular climbing routes, and the logistics needed to access the Refugio de la Vega de Urriellu.

History of the Naranjo de Bulnes

The Naranjo de Bulnes has a rich history in the world of rock climbing. Its first ascent was achieved on August 5, 1904, by Pedro Pidal, Marquis of Villaviciosa, and local hunter Gregorio Pérez “El Cainejo”. This achievement marked a turning point in Spanish climbing, as the north face of Picu Urriellu was previously considered inaccessible.Since then, the Naranjo has become a symbol of rock climbing, with over 40 routes opened on its different faces, offering challenges for experienced climbers and those looking for a guided climbing experience.

Most Popular Climbing Routes on the Naranjo de Bulnes

The Naranjo de Bulnes offers a wide range of routes for different skill levels, but some stand out for their history, beauty, and popularity. Here are some of the most important ones:

1. South Face - Direct Route (D):

• Grade: Difficulty (IV+).

• Length: 200 meters.

• Description: This is the most classic and accessible route on Picu Urriellu. Opened in 1944 by the Martínez brothers, it’s the ideal route for those starting out in multi-pitch climbing or for those wanting to enjoy a guided climb in a stunning environment.

2. East Face - Cepeda (MD):

• Grade: Moderate Difficulty (V).

• Length: 350 meters.

• Description: The Cepeda route is one of the most beautiful routes on the Naranjo de Bulnes. It’s a technical route, combining cracks, chimneys, and friction climbing, making it perfect for intermediate climbers seeking a more demanding challenge.

3. West Face - Pidal-Cainejo (MD+):

• Grade: Moderate Difficulty (V+).

• Length: 500 meters.

• Description: This route follows the same path as the first ascent made in 1904 by Pidal and El Cainejo. With exposed sections and technical moves, it’s one of the most historic routes on the Naranjo, reserved for experienced climbers or those part of a guided ascent.

4. North Face - Rabadá-Navarro (ED):

• Grade: Extreme Difficulty (6a).

• Length: 750 meters.

• Description: The north face of the Naranjo is famous for its complexity and commitment. The Rabadá-Navarro route is one of the most legendary, opened in 1962 by renowned climbers Alberto Rabadá and Ernesto Navarro. It requires a high level of technical skill and physical preparation.

Logistics for Accessing the Refugio de la Vega de Urriellu

For those planning to climb the Naranjo de Bulnes, the first stop is the Refugio de la Vega de Urriellu, located at the foot of the Picu. This refuge serves as the base for most ascents, and it’s crucial to plan access and reservations ahead of time.

How to Get to the Refugio de la Vega de Urriellu:

1. Route from Sotres:

• Access: Most climbers start the approach from the village of Sotres in Asturias, which is the most popular access point.

• Duration: Approximately 4-5 hours of hiking.

• Elevation Gain: 900 meters.

• Description: From Sotres, follow the path towards Pandiellu, then continue up to the refuge. The trail is well-marked but demanding, so be physically prepared.

2. Route from Bulnes:

• Access: Another option is to take the funicular to the village of Bulnes and then hike to the refuge.

• Duration: 5-6 hours.

• Elevation Gain: 1,200 meters.

• Description: This route is longer and has a greater elevation gain but offers spectacular views as you journey deeper into the Picos de Europa.

Refugio de la Vega de Urriellu:

• Capacity: The refuge can accommodate about 90 climbers, and reservations are necessary, especially during peak season.

• Services: The refuge offers basic amenities such as meals, potable water, and beds, but it does not have a consistent electricity supply, so it’s recommended to bring external batteries for charging devices.

Guided Climbing on the Naranjo de Bulnes

If you’re looking to experience climbing the Naranjo de Bulnes but lack the necessary experience or prefer to have the support of professionals, a guided climbing activity is the best option. At SouthClimb, we offer guided climbs on Picu Urriellu with certified guides who will provide safety, local knowledge, and the confidence needed to tackle this legendary mountain. 

Benefits of a guided climb:

• Choose the best route for your skill level with the help of experts.

• Learn advanced multi-pitch climbing techniques.

• Enjoy a safe experience in a challenging environment.

• Experience an unforgettable adventure on one of Spain’s most iconic peaks.

Conclusion

The Naranjo de Bulnes is a dream destination for any climber. Its history, challenging routes, and breathtaking scenery make it a unique place in the Picos de Europa. Whether you’re seeking a technical challenge or a more accessible experience, a guided climb on Picu Urriellu will allow you to fully enjoy this iconic peak.Prepare your gear, book your guided activity, and embark on the adventure of climbing the Naranjo de Bulnes with SouthClimb!