Dicember 14, 2021 | CLIMBING
Autumn is coming to an end. Daylight hours are shrinking and temperatures are edging closer to winter. It's time to look for south-facing walls, warm rock. It's time to climb in the sun.
Margalef is one of the climbing areas in the province of Tarragona with the most bolted routes—over 1,400 of them. And the best part is that you'll find difficulties for every level. This climbing area in the Priorat region also has plenty of south-facing sectors, so you can enjoy winter climbing to the fullest, making the most of the sun's rays.
We've put together information on three recommended sectors in Margalef for sun climbing.
Can Torxa is a sector located near the Margalef reservoir. It's right by the road, so the approach from the parking area is almost nonexistent. The routes are vertical, on excellent-quality rock. It's an ideal sector for climbers working in the 6th grade range. It currently has more than 20 bolted routes.
The sun hits the wall starting around 8 a.m. and disappears around 4 p.m., so in winter you'll get almost the full day's worth of light for climbing at Can Torxa.
Recommended routes: between V+ and 7a.
Best season: winter.
Approach: 1 minute.
Aspect: south-facing.
Route selection: Follet Tortuga V+, Escalagmita 6a+, Freekando 6b, Delicatessen 6c, and Chachi Qui Chapi 7a.
Nearby sectors: Cingles del Moli and Can Llepafils.
Espadelles is the popular name for the whole set of sectors that make up the Cingle d'Espadelles. The wall is divided into seven sectors in total: Raco de les Espadelles, La Mainadera, Soledad, Cova del Cavall, Espadelles Extension, Bonavista, and Bombo Taronja. Punta Espadelles and Totxo de les Espadelles can be added to these seven sectors. Keep in mind that at Punta Espadelles the sun is only present until midday, while in the rest you'll get sunlight from sunrise to sunset.
The range of grades is very wide at Espadelles. It has something for 9th-grade climbers, those trying 7th-grade routes, and those who feel comfortable on 6th- and 5th-grade routes. No one will run out of routes on this excellent Margalef wall, perhaps the most famous in the area.
Recommended routes: between V+ and 9a.
Best season: winter.
Approach: depending on the sector, between 5 and 25 minutes.
Aspect: south-facing.
Route selection: Memoria Histerica 6b, Setareh 6c, Que pasa neng? 7a, Amb Pal No Dona Pal 7b, and Adios Paquito 8a.
Nearby sectors: Punta Espadelles and Totxo de les Espadelles.
Cami de l'Ermita is one of the quintessential winter climbing sectors in Margalef. The views from the base of the routes are also among the best in the area. Located next to the small Sant Salvador hermitage, you'll take in the vastness of the Barranc de Sant Salvador.
The sector has a comfortable base area, and the approach from the parking area is quick. In under 10 minutes you'll be ready to start climbing. Cami de l'Ermita has more than 20 bolted routes, most of them 6th grade, with an average height of 20 to 25 meters. In winter, the sun is present from sunrise to sunset.
Following the wall to the right are the El Balco de l'Ermita and Caberenet sectors, both with more demanding grades.
Recommended routes: between V+ and 7a.
Best season: winter.
Approach: under 10 minutes.
Aspect: south-facing.
Route selection: Flor de Llit V+, Soc Roig 6a, La Chinita de Al Lao 6b, Flors i Violes 6b+, and Seca i Meca 6c.
Nearby sectors: Balco de l'Ermita and Cabernet.
If you'd like us to take you to discover these sectors or any other sun-facing climbing sector in Catalonia, contact us.
Discover three of the best long routes to get started with multi-pitch climbing in Tarragona's Costa Dorada.
LEARN MOREThe province of Tarragona has some of the best areas in the world for sport climbing. Discover our selection.
LEARN MOREYou can contact us via email at [email protected] or by phone to (+34) 645 432 307, or by filling up the contact form in the following link.
(Translated by Google) The morning with Santi has been great. He has ensured that we learn what is necessary and has managed to balance the challenge and security very well. Santi is a true professional and it shows that he is an excellent climber. Without a doubt we will repeat!
(Original) La mañana con Santi ha sido estupenda. Se ha encargado de que aprendamos lo necesario y ha sabido equilibrar muy bien el reto y la seguridad. Santi es todo un profesional y se nota que es un excelso escalador. Sin dudarlo repetiremos!
(Translated by Google) A unique experience next to a great professional. The fear management course makes you spend a weekend connecting with yourself, nature, you meet new crazy companions... and always all the exercises safely next to a very close psychologist. For me, an experience of 10, where (regardless of the level you have) it is useful to stop grabbing the rock with your teeth and enjoy the fluidity and the fall, since it is part of climbing.
(Original) Una experiencia única al lado de un gran profesional. El curso de gestión del miedo te hace pasar un fin de semana de conexión contigo, la naturaleza, conoces nuevos compañeros de locuras… y siempre todos los ejercicios de forma segura al lado de una psicologa muy cercana. Para mi, una experiencia de 10, donde (tengas el nivel que tengas) es útil para dejar de cogerte a la roca con los dientes y disfrutar de la fluidez y de la caída, ya que forma parte de la escalada.
(Translated by Google) Santi's mix of professionalism and good vibes makes the climbing experience complete: educational to learn and fun to enjoy. 100% recommended
(Original) La mezcla de profesionalidad y buena vibra de Santi hace que la experiencia de escalada sea completa: educativa para aprender y divertida para disfrutarla. Recomendado 100%
(Translated by Google) We did the long track course with Santi. The guy is a machine, he explains very well and gives a lot of security. Totally recommended.
(Original) Hicimos el curso de vía larga con Santi. El tio es un máquina, explica muy bien y da mucha seguridad. Totalmente recomendado.
Just finished the 2-day multi pitch course. Excellent experience with our coach Santi, who is a professional and very experienced rock climber and alpinist.
We were taught all the techniques and logics to complete a multi pitch route in the mountains (the second day in Montserrat is amazing!).
We also had many nice small talks about risk management, how to start climbing multi pitch for beginners, etc.. Very nice people and vibe here ;)
(Translated by Google) Santi is one of the best guides I've met, I did the sport climbing course with him, the long route course and I also went for a couple of days to do sport climbing. He has always been very kind and friendly, the explanations he gives are clear and very useful. He knows the areas he goes to perfectly and gives very good recommendations to return there on your own.
(Original) Santi és un dels millors guies que he conegut, he fet amb ell el curs d'escalada esportiva, el de via llarga i també he anat un parell de dies a fer esportiva. Sempre ha segut molt amable i amistós, les explicacions que dona son clares i molt útils. Coneix perfectament les zones on va i dona molt bones recomanacions per tornar-hi pel teu compte.
I organised a 4hr climbing session in Siurana for 10 children (mostly aged 8-9) and Santi was super easy to communicate with and organise everything remotely. He arranged 2 guides, all the equipment, safe briefing and everything you would need for a half day of fun climbing. The kids really enjoyed themselves and learnt so much along the way. Some were beginners, others had climbed before and the guides were very helpful and supportive. I highly recommend Southclimb and we can’t wait to go climbing with them again.
(Translated by Google) Santi transmits confidence and gives you security. His explanations are clear. He knows the areas and the best places for each level well. To repeat!!!
(Original) Santi transmite confianza y te da seguridad. Sus explicaciones son claras. Conoce bien las zonas y los mejores sitios para cada nivel. Para repetir!!!
(Translated by Google) I have done the initiation course and I liked it a lot, because of the content, relaxed atmosphere and at the same time serious in relation to safety. I will surely sign up for more activities!
(Original) He he hecho el curso de iniciación y me ha gustado mucho, por el contenido, clima descontraído y a la vez serio en relación a la seguridad. Seguramente me apuntaré a más actividades!
(Translated by Google) A great climbing day!
(Original)Un dia d'escalada genial!
