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October 11, 2023 |

CADE, AGULLA DEL CENTENAR

The C.A.D.E. route on Agulla del Centenar is one of the great classics of the Montserrat massif.

The CADE route on Agulla del Centenar was opened in 1974 by Emili Albir, Joan Badia, Josep Lalueza, and Ramon Masats, and is without a doubt one of the most classic routes on the north face of Montserrat. Athletic climbing on chimneys and cracks that are practically unequipped, inviting us to a day of adventure on the magic mountain.

It's located in a very shady area of Montserrat, making it an ideal route for the hot months, although it should be noted that it's a fairly humid spot and can feel muggy at the height of summer. The first 20/30 meters of the first pitch are a bit of a formality, clipping slings, or at least for me, since I prefer not to risk falling on these 50-year-old bolts. I think the route goes free at 7b. If you'd rather clip slings, you'll need to climb sections of at least 5+/6a. Once past this pitch, the route becomes a celebration of chimneys and cracks to protect. The second and fourth pitches are particularly worth mentioning — really beautiful.

Technical Info

Length 200 m
Difficulty 6a / Ae
Gear 22 quickdraws, cam set up to #3, doubling #2 and #3. Removable bolt hanger and aider.
Orientation North
Best season Summer
Regulations None
Approach 50 minutes
Descent 1 hour

Approach

From the Can Macana parking area, follow the signs to the Vicenc Barbera refuge. Once past the wooden fence, you'll find a well-marked path branching right and another to the left. Take the left one toward Cadireta. About 400 meters past Cadireta, you'll find an ascending path on the right that leads to Coll del Porc — follow this path until you're close to the wall. You'll reach a junction with a path going right and another left. Go left for 50 meters and you'll find a small, loose gully leading up toward the wall. Near the wall, start veering right and skirt around it. You'll find a rope fixed to a tree — continue a few more meters and you're at the base of the route.

Descent

From the summit, you can do a short rappel or downclimb through a gully toward the south face. Once at the bottom, look for blue markers and follow them to the right (the path initially climbs). Follow these markers until you reach the wide gully. From this point, descend to the Vicenç Barbera refuge and follow the well-marked path to the Can Maçana parking area.

Conclusion

A must-do route for lovers of crack climbing and classic mountaineering. The rock is quite good, with the exception of a few specific sections. Highly recommended.

Want to climb this route with a SouthClimb guide? You'll find all the information at this link.

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(Translated by Google) I have already done several courses with Santi, he is very professional, motivating and fun. He has a lot of patience and good humor, which makes you want to learn and improve yourself. We will repeat!!!
(Original) Ya he hecho varios cursos con Santi, es muy profesional, motivador y divertido. Tiene mucha paciencia y buen humor, cosa q hace que tengas ganas de aprender y superarte. Repetiremos!!!

– Olga P
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(Translated by Google) Great climbing course! Santi knows how to transmit all his experience, he also explains very well and makes the most of each one by transmitting confidence. Great experience!! A great group!
(Original) Gran curso de escalada! Santi sabe transmitir toda su experiencia, además explica muy bien y hace sacar el máximo de cada uno transmitiendo confianza. Gran experiencia!! Un grupo genial!

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(Original) Muy profesionals, pasamos un dia genial gracias a southclimb con el curso de bautizo en escalada seguro vamos a hacer el curso avanzado! Este deporte es la caña y encima te permite viajar para conocer nuevos sitios I nueva gente! 200% recomendable 🙏 Gracias Santi y Sara! 🤘⚡

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(Original) Un profesional increíble personalmente lo pase de fábula en el bautizo de escalada en cuerda totalmente recomendable 🤘🤘🤘 no te arrepentirás

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(Original) Gente fantástica que te enseña con calma y lo más importante disfrutando. Merci!!! Para repetir

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Santi is the best climbing guide you can imagine. As a reference, we two are 6a-7a climbers, but we wanted a local guide to help maximize efficiency in a foreign area. He was highly recommended to us by a friend who Santi guided a few months back, and he was as wonderful as described. He takes his role as Guide seriously and comprehensively, from helping you plan ideas for areas to concentrate on, considerations of weather and season, logistics for where to stay and how to get there (he picked us up one day, and we met him in our car another), as well as making himself available to help with any other questions or needs for the trip as a whole (not just the climbing part). Our long chain of detailed texts show how dedicated and sincere he is in wanting to help plan the best trip possible for you. This was highly unique, unexpected, above and beyond, and much appreciated. Before you've even met, he treats you more like a friend coming to visit Spain than a client that he is just doing business with, and that warmth goes a long way and sets him apart from most any other guide I've experienced (i've had great guides in my life, so this just reinforces Santi's particularly special character). Like I really felt like we were friends, and still feel like we are, as he reaches out and keeps in touch still and I really appreciate that relationship. Humanity, sincerity, and kindness in business--what a crazy (wonderful) concept! As a climbing guide specifically: he is consummately professional, impressively knowledgable and safe, as well as comfortingly sensitive to your climbing abilities and needs, and tailors each day with climbs that are perfect for you--if you want to be comfortable or if you want a little/big challenge, if you want to experience highlights of an area by switching up crags in the same day. He knows the areas so well and of course knows how to choose the walls that are in the shade or in the sun for whatever time of day or season you are climbing. There is so much variety and fun for either multi or single pitch too. In addition, when we were all climbed out for the day, he took the opportunity to show us the beauty of the local areas, playing also a photographer and travel guide. He also went home to let us borrow his guide book to other areas that we were headed to later, and kept in touch to make sure the rest of our trip went smoothly. So nice! Here is a person who treats his job as a climbing guide and ambassador for the area with such deep consideration and earnestness, and who treats his role as a human being with exceptional kindness and faith. We are so grateful that he came into our lives as a climbing guide and as a friend. Thank you Santi for being you, and please everyone call him now for any guiding adventures (he travels to guide too!) Also, his rates are so fair and reasonable. And you will be so happy if he is available to take you on an adventure with him! Cheers!

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(Original) He he hecho el curso de iniciación y me ha gustado mucho, por el contenido, clima descontraído y a la vez serio en relación a la seguridad. Seguramente me apuntaré a más actividades!

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(Original) Experiencia de escalada muy recomendable en un entorno seguro. Muy profesionales y buen trato

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